Greece - Korina Miller [409]
When facing the gulf, you’ll see stairway remains of a theatre. Above it was the prytaneion, where Lato’s rulers met. The stone circle behind the (fenced-off) central well was a threshing floor; columns beside it were from the stoa, which stood in the agora. Mosaic remains lie nearby. A right-hand path accesses the Temple of Apollo.
Lato gets no buses. From Kritsa, follow the (signposted) right-hand turn before Kritsa. Alternatively, enjoy the 4km walk through olive groves.
Another important site, Minoan Gournia ( 28410 24943; admission €3; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), pronounced goor-nyah, is east of Kritsa on the coast road, 19km southeast of Agios Nikolaos. Ruins here date from 1550–1450 BC, and comprise a small palace and town. They include streets, stairways and houses, with 2m-high walls. Trade, domestic and agricultural implements discovered here indicate Gournia was fairly prosperous. Any bus east from Agios Nikolaos can drop you here.
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MOHLOS ΜΟΧΛΟΣ
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Tranquil Mohlos (moh-los), renowned for its psarotavernes, lies down a 5km winding road off the Sitia–Agios Nikolaos highway. Now it’s a chilled-out beach getaway with a few rooms, but from 3000 to 2000 BC it was a thriving Minoan town. The eponymous island now 200m offshore was joined to it in antiquity, and archaeologists still work in both places; an information board overlooking the harbour chronicles their finds.
While notable construction is ongoing, Mohlos’ remoteness prevents it from ever being overrun. The small pebble-and-grey-sand beach has good swimming, but mind the currents between the island and the village.
Mohlos accommodation includes Hotel Sofia ( /fax 28430 94554; r €35-45; ), above a tasty taverna. The smallish rooms have new furniture and bedding, plus fridge; the front ones boast sea-view balconies. Kyma ( 28430 94177; soik@in.gr; studio €35; ), signposted on the western side, offers spotless self-contained studios. For eating, Cretans flock to Ta Kochilia ( 28430 94432; fish €4.50-10) with its excellent fresh fish. Sea-urchin salad, cuttlefish and sea bream are all great here.
Although Mohlos lacks direct buses, any Agios Nikolaos–Sitia bus can drop you at the turn-off, from where it’s a 6km walk (or hitch) to Mohlos.
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SITIA ΣΗΤΕΙΑ
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Sitia (si-tee-ah), de facto capital of easternmost Crete, is a quiet seaside town but does boast an airport and Dodecanese-bound ferries. Here, agriculture and commerce supersede tourism, and most visitors are low-key Greeks.
Sitia’s architecture, strung up a terraced hillside, mixes Venetian and newer structures. The pretty harbour-side promenade features tavernas and cafes, while a sandy beach skirts the eastern bay. Sitia is always laid back, and makes a good base for exploring nearby beaches and sights.
Orientation & Information
Plateia Iroon Polytehniou is Sitia’s main square. The bus station is at the eastern end of Karamanli, behind the bay. Ferries dock 500m north of Plateia Agnostou. Several ATMs are available in the centre of town.
Akasti Travel ( 28430 29444; www.akasti.gr; Kornarou & Metaxaki 4) Does trips and provides info.
Java Internet Cafe ( 28430 22263; Kornarou 113; 9am-late).
Post office (Dimokritou; 7.30am-3pm) Heading inland, the first left off Venizelou.
Tourist office ( 28430 28300; Karamanli; 9.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat) Waterfront office offers maps.
Sights
Sitia’s excellent Archaeological Museum ( 28430 23917; Piskokefalou; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) exhibits local finds dating from Neolithic to Roman times. Significant