Greece - Korina Miller [410]
Sitia’s towering Venetian fort ( 8.30am-3pm), locally called kazarma (from ‘casa di arma’) is now only walls, and used as an open-air venue.
The folklore museum ( 28430 22861; Kapetan Sifinos 28; admission €2; 10am-1pm Mon-Fri) displays local weavings.
Sleeping
Hotel Arhontiko ( 28430 28172; Kondylaki 16; d/studio without bathroom €30/35), occupying an uphill neoclassical building, has old-world ambience. This spotless guesthouse has shared bathrooms and garden.
El Greco Hotel ( 28430 23133; info@elgreco-sitia.gr; Arkadiou 13; s/d incl breakfast €30/40; ) offers very clean and presentable rooms with fridge.
Apostolis ( 28430 28172; Kazantzaki 27; d/tr €40/47) These domatia have ceiling fans and relatively modern bathrooms. There’s a communal balcony and fridge.
Hotel Flisvos ( 28430 27135; www.flisvos-sitia.com; Karamanli 4; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/70/80; ) Along the southern waterfront, this modern hotel offers well-appointed rooms with all mod cons.
Eating
Taverna O Mihos ( 28430 22416; Kornarou 117; grills €5-8) In a traditional stone house behind the waterfront, O Mihos does great charcoal-grilled meats and Cretan fare. Eat on the beachfront terrace.
Sitia Beach ( 28430 22104; Karamanli 28; specials €5.50-9) Unexpectedly good pizza, plus home-style specials, are served at this beachfront place.
Balcony ( 28430 25084; Foundalidou 19; mains €10-19) Sitia’s finest dining is upstairs in this well-decorated neoclassical building. The diverse range includes Cretan, Mexican and Asian-inspired dishes.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Sitia’s airport ( 28430 24666) serves national destinations, with plans for international ones too. For domestic flight info, Island Hopping.
BOAT
Sitia’s ferries primarily serve the Dodecanese. For ferry info, Island Hopping.
BUS
From Sitia’s bus station ( 28430 22272), six daily buses serve Ierapetra (€5.40, 1½ hours), and seven go to Iraklio (€13.10, three hours) via Agios Nikolaos (€6.90, 1½ hours). Four buses go to Vaï (€3, 30 minutes), and two serve Kato Zakros via Palekastro and Zakros (€4.50, one hour) in summer only.
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND SITIA
Moni Toplou Μο Τοπλο
The defences of the imposing fortesslike Moni Toplou ( 28430 61226; admission €2.50; 9am-6pm Apr-Oct), 18km east of Sitia, were tested by all from crusading knights to the Turks. The showpiece here is an 18th-century icon by Ioannis Kornaros, with 61 ornate miniature scenes inspired by an Orthodox prayer. More excellent icons, plus engravings, books, and Resistance-era military gear are exhibited in the monastery’s museum. Ecclesiastical souvenirs, books on Crete, and the monastery’s award-winning organic olive oil and wine are sold in the shop.
To reach Toplou, walk 3km from the Sitia–Palekastro road. Buses can stop at the junction.
Vaï Βϊ
Europe’s only ‘natural’ palm-forest beach is that of Vaï, 24km east of Sitia. Some say the palms sprouted from date pits spread by Roman legionaries kicking back after conquering Egypt. While closely related to the date, these palms are a separate, and unique, species. The inviting white sands here get packed in summer, though you can access a more secluded beach by clambering over a rocky outcrop behind the taverna. Also, 3km north the Minoan site of Itanos has good swimming nearby.
In summer, five daily buses operate from Sitia (€2.50, one hour) and stop at Palekastro. The beach car park charges €3; alternatively, park for free on the roadside 500m before Vaï.
Palekastro Παλακαστρo
pop 1080
Barren, agricultural Palekastro (pah-leh-kas-tro) lies on the road connecting Vaï Beach and the Zakros ruins, and itself has a promising site about 1km from town: Ancient Palekastro, where a major Minoan