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Greece - Korina Miller [426]

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to the Acropolis cost €5 one way – be aware that the poor creatures should not be carrying anyone over 50kg (112lbs), though this stipulation is rarely enforced. To get here on your own steam, head straight into the village from the main square, turn left at the church and follow the signs. The last stretch is a strenuous 10-minute climb up slippery steps. There’s no shade at the top; pack a hat and some water.

Beaches

The Main Beach is to the east of the Acropolis and is sandy with warm water. You can follow a path north to the western tip of the bay to the smaller Pallas Beach where there are some tavernas and a jetty. Avoid swimming near the jetty as it’s home to black stinging anemones. On the western side of the Acropolis is the sheltered St Paul’s Bay with its warm, turquoise water. It’s a bit more of a trek to get to but often quieter than the main beach.

SLEEPING

Accommodation can be expensive, hard to find or already reserved. Be sure to call ahead.

Anastasia Studio ( 22440 31751; www.lindos-studios.gr; d/tr €45/60; ) On the eastern side of town, these modern apartments are spacious and comfortable, with fantastic flower bedecked verandas affording sea views. Each has a well equipped kitchen and separate bedroom and there’s a minimarket across the road.

Electra ( 22440 31266; s/d €45/55; ) Thankfully, Lindos’ true budget option is brilliant. Electra has an expansive and popular roof terrace with superb views and a beautiful shady garden of lemon trees. The 11 rooms are airy and spacious. Each has a fridge and there’s a communal kitchen. Follow the donkey route to find it.

Filoxenia Guest House ( 22440 31266; www.lindos-filoxenia.com; d/ste incl breakfast €90/140; ) Inside a traditional home, these simple rooms are embellished with wrought-iron bed frames, antique furnishing, tiled floors or raised sleeping platforms. Family rooms are also available. All rooms have fridge and kitchenette.

Melenos ( 22440 32222; www.melenoslindos.com; ste incl breakfast €385; ) The kind of place most of us dream of staying, Melenos is pure luxury. Built in 17th-century style, almost everything has been handmade, hand-carved or hand-stitched – from the sandstone motifs to the mosaic floors, painted ceiling, woven fabrics and cedar sleeping platforms. Artefacts embellish the already gorgeous rooms while the verandas offer privacy, more comfort and stunning views. Head up to the rooftop bar for your evening aperitif.

EATING

Valanda’s Crepes ( 22440 31673; crêpes €3-5) You’ll smell your way to this crêperie en route to the Acropolis. Watch the crêpes flipped in front of you within the cool blue interior. Choose from sweet and savoury fillings.

Captain’s House ( 22440 31235; snacks €3-6) This atmospheric, shaded courtyard is an oasis after a trip up to the Acropolis. Sit on sofas in the shaded courtyard or head inside the traditional captain’s house. Refresh with iced coffees, beer on tap, cocktails and juice or munch on baguettes or toasted sandwiches. Follow signs left from the Acropolis.

Eklekto ( 22440 31286; mains €3-6) Popular with locals and expats, this leafy courtyard and comfortable cafe has sandwiches, tortillas and salads – try Cleopatra’s with dried figs, rocket and pine nuts. It’s just east off the main drag.

Kalypso ( 22440 32135; mains €6-12) Set in one of Lindos’ historic buildings, this is a family-run restaurant that’s stood the test of time. Ignore the touristy outdoor appearance; inside you’ll find traditional decor and a warm atmosphere. Dine on the rooftop on feta flutes, fresh tuna, sausages in mustard, or rabbit stew in red wine. The menu is enormous, with vegetarian and children’s options. Take the second right off the main drag to find it.

DRINKING

Lindos has plenty of trendy bars and clubs, many of which come and go in fashion with each summer season. Just follow the throngs.


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WESTERN RHODES & THE INTERIOR

Greener and more forested than the east coast, Western Rhodes makes for a great road trip with a number of worthwhile sights. It’s also windier so the sea tends

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