Greece - Korina Miller [427]
Ancient Ialysos Αρχαα Iαλυσóς
The Doric city of Ialysos (adult €3; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) was built on Filerimos Hill, an excellent vantage point, and attracted successive invaders over the years. Over time, it became a hotchpotch of Doric, Byzantine and medieval remains. As you enter, stairs lead to the ancient remains of a 3rd-century-BC temple and the restored 14th-century Chapel of Agios Georgios and Monastery of Our Lady. All that’s left of the temple are the foundations but the chapel is a peaceful retreat.
Take the path left from the entrance to a 12th-century chapel (looking like a bunker) filled with frescoes. They’re not well preserved but worth a look. To the right of the entrance lies a ruined and no longer accessible fortress used by Süleyman the Magnificent during his siege of Rhodes Town.
There is a sign requesting that visitors dress ‘properly’. Although there’s no elaboration, out of respect, shoulders should be covered and women should wear long skirts or trousers. Outside the entrance you’ll find a small kiosk, a whole lot of peacocks and a popular tree-lined path with the Stations of the Cross. There are also ruins of a Byzantine church below the car park. Ialysos is 10km from Rhodes, with buses running every half hour.
Ialysos to Petaloudes
Heading south from Ialysos, you’ll come to the small but interesting Bee Museum ( 22410 48200; www.mel.gr; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm), with lots of English explanations. You’ll learn about the process of honey-making and collecting, equipment from past and present, and the history of beekeeping on Rhodes. See bees at work, dress up in beekeepers outfits and watch demonstrations of making honey. The gift shop is a great place to stock up on souvenirs: honey rum, honey soap, honey sweets and just plain honey. To reach the museum, join the super-smooth Tsairi–Airport motorway towards Kalithies; it’s on the right, just past Pastida.
From here it’s a short trip to Marista from where the scenic road takes you up over pine forested hills to Psinthos, where you’ll find a lively square lined with lunch spots. To Stolidi Tis Psinthoy ( 22410 59998; mains €7-9) has a country feel to it with wooden beams, checked tablecloths and family photos on the walls. Try spicy pork, dolmadhes and freshly baked country bread.
Petaloudes Πεταλοδες
Northwest of Psinthos, Petaloudes (adult €3; 8.30am-4.30pm) is better known as the Valley of the Butterflies. Visit in June, July or August when these colourful creatures mature, and you’ll quickly see why. They’re actually moths (Callimorpha quadripunctarea) drawn to this gorge by the scent of the resin exuded by the storax trees. In summer, this is a very popular sight frequented by tour buses. Come out of season and you’ll miss the winged critters but you’ll have the gorgeous forest path, rustic footbridges, streams and pools to yourself.
While the moths have undoubtedly benefited from having a reserve of their own, their numbers are under threat due to noise disturbance. You’re therefore asked not to clap your hands or make any other disruptive noise.
Ancient Kamiros Αρχαα Κμειρο
The extensive ruins of the Doric city of Kamiros stand on a hillside above the west coast, 34km south of Rhodes Town. The ancient city, known for its figs, oil and wine, reached the height of its powers in the 6th century BC. By the 4th century BC it had been superseded by Rhodes. Most of the city was destroyed by earthquakes in 226 and 142 BC, leaving only a discernible layout. Ruins include a Doric temple, with one column still standing, Hellenistic houses, a Temple to Athena and a 3rd-century great stoa. It was built on top of a huge 6th-century cistern that supplied the houses with rainwater through an advanced drainage system.
At the time of research, the entire site was closed due to destruction