Greece - Korina Miller [428]
Ancient Kamiros to Monolithos Αρχαα Κμειρος προς Μοóλιθο
Skala Kamirou, 13.5km south of ancient Kamiros, serves as the access port for travellers heading to and from the island of Halki. The small harbour itself is north of town and very picturesque. Even if you’re not waiting for a ferry, it’s worth stopping for lunch at O Loukas ( 22460 31271; mains €7-12). With big, sea views, appropriately nautical decor and a relaxed atmosphere, it serves up very fresh fish, seafood and homemade burgers.
Just south of the harbour, before the town of Skala, is a turning for Kritinia. This will lead you to the ruined 16th-century Kritinia Castle with awe-inspiring views along the coast and across to Halki. It’s a magical setting where you expect to come across Romeo or Rapunzel.
The road south from here to Monolithos has some stunning scenery. From Skala Kamirou the road winds uphill, with a turning left for the wine-making area of Embonas (below) about 5km further on. The main road continues for another 9km to Siana, a picturesque village below Mt Akramytis (825m), famed for its honey and souma – a spirit made from seasonal fruit.
The village of Monolithos, 5km beyond Siana, has the spectacularly sited 15th- century Castle of Monolithos perched on a sheer 240m-high rock and reached via a dirt track. To enter, climb through the hole in the wall. Continuing along this track, bear right at the fork for Moni Agiou Georgiou, or left for the very pleasant shingled Fourni Beach.
Wine Country
From Salakos, head inland to Embonas on the slopes of Mt Attavyros (1215m), the island’s highest mountain. Embonas is the wine capital of Rhodes and produces some of the island’s best tipples. The red Cava Emery or Zacosta and white Villare are good choices. Taste and buy them at Emery Winery ( 22410 41208; www.emery.gr; Embonas; admission free; 9.30am-4.30pm April-Oct), which offers tours of its cottage production. You’ll find it on the eastern edge of town.
Embonas is no great shakes itself, despite being touted by the tourism authorities as a ‘traditional village’. Detour around Mt Attavyros to Agios Isidoros, 14km south of Embonas, a prettier and still unspoilt wine-producing village en route to Siana.
Return to beginning of chapter
SOUTHERN RHODES
South of Lindos, the island is lush and less developed. As you head further south, it takes on a windswept appearance and the villages seem to have a slower pace. It’s well worth exploring – strike out along a quiet country road and you’re sure to stumble upon lovely views, quiet villages and family tavernas pleased to whip you up a hearty meal.
Just 2km south of Lindos, sandy Pefki Beach is deservedly popular. If it’s too crowded, try Glystra Beach, just down the road and a great spot for swimming.
The flourishing village of Laerma is 12km northwest of Lardos. From here it’s another 5km through hilly, green countryside to the beautifully sited 9th-century Moni Tharri (entrance by donation), the island’s first monastery, which has been re-established as a monastic community. It’s a bit of a trek but worth the drive if you’re into frescoes. Every inch of the chapel’s interior is covered in ornate 13th-century paintings which are very well preserved. The monastery is generally left unlocked during the day.
Further down the coast is the turning for Asklipieio, with the ruins of a castle and the 11th-century Church of Kimisis Theotokou, with more Byzantine wall paintings.
Gennadi Γεδι
pop 655
A patchwork of narrow streets and whitewashed houses set several hundred metres back from the beach, Gennadi (ye-nah-dhi) is a quiet village with enough facilities to make it a decent southern base. You’ll find a fruit market, bakery, cafes, supermarket, internet access, car hire and a couple of cocktail bars to keep you going.
Effie’s Dreams Apartments ( 22440 43410; www.effiesdreams.com; d/tr €54/58; ) is next to an enormous 800-year-old mulberry tree and has simple, clean studios with small kitchenettes and lovely rural and sea vistas