Greece - Korina Miller [429]
Mama’s Kitchen ( 22440 43547; pasta €5-6) looks pretty average but makes fresh pizza in front of you. Try one with feta, olives and swordfish. There are also pasta and grills.
Gennadi to Prasonisi Γεδι προς Πρασοσι
From Gennadi an almost uninterrupted beach of pebbles, shingle and sand dunes extends down to Plimmyri, 11km south.
Watch for a signposted turning to Lahania, 2km off the main highway. The top road of Lahania is less than special, but head downhill into the old town (the first left if you’re coming from the coast) to find a village of winding alleyways and traditional buildings that makes it onto very few tourist itineraries. Surrounded by lemon trees and flowers, Agios Georgios is a pretty church in the main square with a star-strewn ceiling and a plethora of chandeliers.
If a rural holiday takes your fancy but you want to do it in comfort, stay at the Four Elements ( 6939450014; studio/apt per week €515/550; ) with its exceptionally homey and spacious apartments. Some have sea views and one has a traditional open fireplace. All have full kitchens and there’s a divine pool, kid’s pool, outdoor grill and garden. One of the apartments is wheelchair accessible.
While in Lahania, stop for lunch at Taverna Platanos ( 22440 46027; mains €3-5), a relaxed taverna tucked behind the church in the main square. With traditional decor and a flower-filled patio, it’s a great place to take a break.
The main coastal road continues south past countless chapels to Kattavia, Rhodes’ most southerly village. It’s a friendly place that doesn’t see a lot of tourist traffic. Stop in at Penelope’s ( 6944794342; mains €5-12) in the main square for fresh fish, handmade chips and Greek salad made with lots of local greens.
From Kattavia, a 10km road snakes south across windswept terrain to remote and gorgeous Cape Prasonisi, the island’s southernmost point. Once joined to Rhodes by a narrow sandy isthmus, it’s now split by encroaching seas. If you’re looking for lunch or a bed, there’s a resort here that caters to windsurfers and has surfer-dude-style restaurants and hostels. Outside of the summer season it’s totally shut.
Kattavia to Monolithos Κατταβα προς Μοóλιθος
Lonely and exposed, Rhodes’ southwest coast doesn’t see many visitors. Forest fires in recent years have devastated many of the west-facing hillsides but it’s nevertheless a beautiful place to visit with an edge-of-the-earth feeling. The beaches along here are prone to strong winds and currents. About 10km north of Kattavia, a turn-off to the right leads to the serene 18th-century Moni Skiadi, with terrific views down to the coast.
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HALKI ΧΑΛΚΗ
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Tiny Halki (hal-ki) rests in relative obscurity, just a stone’s throw from Rhodes. Rocky and bare, it draws those who come for its relaxation value. Visitors park themselves for weeks at a time in restored stone villas that once belonged to sea captains, and spend their days doing little more than chilling out and socialising with the growing, seasonal expat community.
In the days of antiquity, before water had to be carted over from Rhodes, the island’s wells supported a population of 7000 who produced wheat and copper (from which the island’s name is derived). In later years, sponge-fishing became the main industry and its demise led to waves of emigration. The largest group departed for Florida in 1911, where they established a strong Greek community that continues to support the island. Halki existed in almost forgotten silence until the vacation boom of the 1970s and 1980s saw its fortunes rise once more.
Despite its barren appearance, Halki is humming with more life than you might think. With 14 types of butterflies, over 40 kinds of birds, fields or oregano and marjoram, countless bee boxes and around 6000 goats, it’s a wonder there’s room for the sun loungers at all. Visit in spring to see