Greece - Korina Miller [436]
SLEEPING & EATING
You’ll find quite a few small hotels in Diafani. Head to Balaskas Hotel ( 22450 51320; www.balaskashotel.com; s/d €30/40;) where spic-and-span rooms overlook a pretty garden. Set back from the waterfront, all rooms have a fridge and some have small kitchenettes. At the northern end of the bay, Thalassa Apartments ( 22450 22130, 6948629267; www.karpathosbay.com; apt €60;) offers comfortable rooms that are handy for a quick swim off the pebbled harbour beach.
The waterfront is lined with restaurants. Rahati ( 22450 51200; mains €4-7) uses lots of organic ingredients in local dishes like green beans in tomato sauce, octopus in red wine and fresh fish. Near the fountain is La Gorgona ( 22450 51509; mains €4-7) where the Italian owner whips up a mean pasta. Sip cappuccino or homemade limoncello (lemon liqueur) on the terrace or dive into her freshly baked cakes. You can also buy sandwiches and pizza picnics for the beach.
Olymbos Ολυμπος
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Clinging to the ridge of Mt Profitis Ilias (716m), Olymbos is a living museum. While it’s true that the village’s main income is now tourism and the hordes of visitors can give it a theme-park feel, come here out of season or stay behind after the day-trippers clamber back down the mountainside and you’ll be spellbound by Olymbos’ magic.
Olymbos was built high in the mountains to protect the inhabitants from pirates. Long isolated from the outside world, the locals still speak a dialect that contains traces of an ancient Dorian Greek. It’s often called ‘Women’s Village’ as men have traditionally been carted off to war or in search of work. The older women continue to wear traditional dress of bright embroidered skirts, waistcoats, headscarves and goatskin boots. The interiors of the houses are decorated with embroidered cloth and their facades feature brightly painted, ornate plaster reliefs.
Before the tourists came to town, Olymbos was an agricultural centre, at times supporting the entire island. The areas surrounding it continue to be farmed. You’ll find the remains of 75 windmills in and around the village; four are still in operation, grinding flour for the local bread baked in outdoor communal ovens.
Once you’re inside the village, Olymbos is only negotiable by foot, with narrow alleys and stairs. The valley rolls down its east side to Diafani while the west side drops sharply down to the crashing sea. You won’t find banks or post offices here. Basic provisions are available from a couple of shops at the southern end of the village.
SLEEPING & EATING
Small hotels and restaurants are springing up at a quick tempo but if you’re visiting out of season, be sure to call ahead. At the far end of Olymbos and close to the central square, Hotel Aphrodite ( 22450 51307; filippasfilipakkis@yahoo.gr; d €40) has comfortable, airy rooms with verandas looking out over the windmills to the sea. The sunset views are incredible. You’ll also find simple rooms at Mike’s ( 22450 51304; r €25) at the southern edge of town and more upscale versions at Astro Hotel ( 22450 51421; €40) near the centre.
Makarounes is served in most restaurants in Olymbos. You should also aim to try some of the locally made bread. Head for the atmospheric Taverna O Mylos ( 22450 51333; mains €4-8) at the northwestern end of the village. Built around a restored and working windmill, the excellent food is cooked in a wood oven and features organic meat and vegetables, including goat in red-wine sauce, artichokes and filling pites (pies).
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