Greece - Korina Miller [437]
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KASOS ΚΑΣΟΣ
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The remote outpost of Kasos (ka-sos) is the Dodecanese’ southernmost island. Curled up close to Karpathos and not far from Crete, it sees few tourists. The slow-paced community greets those who bother to visit with a warm welcome. Don’t come here for beaches, sights or nightlife. Instead, come to relax amid olive and fig trees, dry-stone walls, meandering sheep and the craggy peaks shrouded in mist. You may end up staying longer than you anticipated.
History
Despite being diminutive and remote, Kasos has an eventful history. During Turkish rule the island flourished, and by 1820 it had 11,000 inhabitants and a large mercantile fleet. (It’s hard to imagine how they didn’t sink the island.) Mohammad Ali, the Turkish governor of Egypt, regarded this fleet as an impediment to his plan to establish a base on Crete and on 7 June 1824 his men landed on Kasos and killed around 7000 inhabitants. This massacre is commemorated annually on the anniversary of the slaughter (known locally as Holocaust Day), and Kasiots return from around the world to participate. During the late 19th century many Kasiots emigrated to Egypt where around 5000 of them helped build the Suez Canal, and during the last century many emigrated to the USA.
Getting There & Away
There are regular flights from Kasos to Rhodes, Karpathos and Crete with Olympic Air ( 22450 41555; Kritis Airport). There are also regular boat departures to Rhodes, Piraeus, Sitia and Finiki on Karpathos.
For more details, Island Hopping.
Getting Around
The local bus serves all the island villages with a dozen or so scheduled runs; tickets are €0.60. There are two taxis ( 6977944371, 6973244371) on the island. Scooters or cars can be hired from Oasis – Renta-a-Car & Bikes ( 22450 41746) in Fry.
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FRY ΦΡΥ
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Fry (free) is the island’s capital and port. It’s a pleasant, ramshackle kind of place with little tourism, though it attracts many returned Kasiot Americans. Its narrow whitewashed streets are usually busy with locals in animated discussion. The village’s focal point is the cramped yet picturesque fishing harbour of Bouka. The annexe settlement of Emborio is located less than 1km east of Fry.
Orientation & Information
The large harbour complex abuts the port village right next to its main square, Plateia Iroön Kasou. Fry’s main street is Kritis. The airport is 1km west along the coast road. Turn left from the harbour to get to Emborio.
A stand-alone Commercial Bank ATM is next to the port entrance, while there’s a Co-operative Bank of the Dodecanese branch, with ATM, on Plateia Iroön Kasou.
ACS Internet ( 22450 42751; 10am-2pm & 5pm-12am) Offers wi-fi.
Farmacy ( 22450 41164) For all medicinal needs.
Health Centre ( 22450 41333) Often unattended; you may need to call ahead.
Kasos Maritime & Travel Agency ( 22450 41495; www.kassos-island.gr; Plateia Iroön Kasou) For all travel tickets.
Police ( 22450 41222) On a narrow paved street running south from Kritis.
Port police ( 22450 41288) Behind the Agios Spyridon Church.
Post office ( 22450 41255; 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Diagonally opposite the Police.
www.kasos.gr An informative website in Greek and English.
Sights & Activities
Fry’s minuscule Archaeological Museum ( 22450 41865; admission free; 9am-3pm, summer only) displays the islands treasures but won’t turn heads. See objects pulled from ancient shipwrecks, a collection of ancient oil lamps and finds from Polis such as inscribed Hellenistic stone slabs.
The Athina excursion boat ( 22450 41047, 6977911209; return €15) travels daily in summer to the uninhabited Armathia Islet, departing Fry harbour at 3pm and returning