Greece - Korina Miller [438]
Sleeping
With the exception of the days on either side of 7 June (Holocaust Memorial Day), a room can normally be found quite easily in summer. Out of season, be sure to call ahead.
Fantasis ( 6977905156; www.fantasishotel.gr; d €40;) These six simple rooms are 300m outside Fry and make for a good, quiet retreat. All have balconies, a fridge and TV. Savour home-grown figs at breakfast.
Evita Village ( 22450 41731, 6972703950; evitavillage@mail.gr; s/d €45/50;) Meticulously equipped studios are airy, spacious and tasteful. They sport every kitchen appliance imaginable, along with TV and DVD, and sleep up to three people.
Angelica’s ( 22450 41268, 6992673833; www.angelicas.gr; apt with/without sea view €65/45;) With simple white walls, wrought-iron beds and beautifully hand-painted floors, these four apartments in a converted traditional home offer tranquillity and comfort. Each airy unit has a full kitchen and a courtyard; some have sea views.
Eating & Drinking
Fry is not overly endowed in the eating stakes, but there are a few decent places to dine.
O Mylos ( 22450 41825; Plateia Iroön Kasou; mains €3-5) A reliable eatery in a cosy corner overlooking the west side of the port. Wholesome food includes fish, meat, casserole dishes and local specials. Ask for roïkio – an unusual, locally produced green salad.
Apangio ( 22450 41880; Bouka; mezedhes €3-5; 9am until late) Enjoying a very atmospheric Bouka harbour location, the Apangio is a classy ouzerie-cum-cafe, serving select mezedhes and late breakfasts.
Cafe Zantana ( 22450 41912; Bouka) Kasiots congregate at this trendy cafe, admiring the view of Bouka harbour with a cocktail or cappuccino in hand.
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AROUND KASOS
The original trading post of Kasos, tiny Emborio is now a satellite port of Fry used for pleasure and fishing boats. With a sandy beach and clear water, it’s the nearest place to Fry for a quick dip.
The rather mediocre Ammounda Beach, beyond the airport near the blue-domed church of Agios Konstandinos, is the next nearest to Fry. There are slightly better beaches further along this stretch of coast, one of them being the fine-pebble Andiperatos Beach at the end of the road system.
The island’s best beach is the isolated pebbled cove of Helatros, near Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, 11km southwest of Fry along a paved road. The beach has no facilities and you’ll need your own transport to reach it. Avlaki is another decent yet small beach here, reached along a track from the monastery. None of Kasos’ beaches offer shade.
Agia Marina, 1km southwest of Fry, is a pretty village with a gleaming white-and-blue church. On 17 July the Festival of Agia Marina is celebrated here. Agia Marina is also the starting point for a 3km-long hike to the former rock shelter known as Ellinokamara, with its odd, stone-blocked entrance. Follow the Hrysoulas signpost at the southern end of Agia Marina, proceed to the end of the road and follow a path between stone walls for about 10 minutes. Look for a track upwards and to the left to reach the cave.
From Agia Marina, the road continues to verdant Arvanitohori, with abundant fig and pomegranate trees. Poli, 3km southeast of Fry, is the former capital, built on the ancient acropolis. Panagia, between Fry and Poli, now has fewer than 50 inhabitants; its once-grand sea captains’ and many ship owners’ mansions are either standing derelict or under repair.
Monasteries
The island has two monasteries. The uninhabited Moni Agiou Mamma, on the south coast, is a 1½-hour walk from Fry or a 20-minute scooter ride (8km) through a dramatic, eroded landscape. A lively festival takes place here on 2 September. Detour to the chapel of Agia Kyriaki (no obvious sign) for eyrie-like views over Fry and the basin villages.
Similarly, there are no monks at Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, but there is a resident caretaker for most of the year. The festival at Agiou Georgiou Hadion takes place during the week after