Greece - Korina Miller [439]
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KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) ΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟΡΙΖΟ (ΜΕΓΙΣΤΗ)
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Kastellorizo (ka-stel-o-rizo) is Greece’s most far-flung island. Omitted on many maps, this speck of territory is tucked snugly beneath the underbelly of Turkey, approximately 130km east of Rhodes. Its nearest neighbour is the Turkish port of Kaş, clearly visible across a mere 5km of water. Kastellorizo was named by the Knights of St John after the island’s towering red cliffs which give the impression of a medieval castle. The ruins of the Knights’ own castle gaze down on the charming, well-preserved harbour with its crystal-clear water. If it all looks familiar, you may have seen the 1991 Italian movie Mediterraneo, which was filmed here. In recent decades Australians have arrived in large numbers in search of their parents or grandparents’ homeland. Many have reclaimed and restored homes and set up businesses, giving the island’s economy a much-needed boost.
If you’re not a film buff or long-lost grandchild, Kastellorizo is not an easy place to get to and doesn’t have a lot of draws. But if you’re curious and determined enough to get here, you’ll likely enjoy uncovering the island’s hidden charms. Snorkel in clear inlets, take in a few unique sights and soak up some tangible peace and quiet.
History
Kastellorizo has a tragic history. Once a thriving trade port serving Dorians, Romans, Crusaders, Egyptians, Turks and Venetians, Kastellorizo came under Ottoman control in 1552. The island was permitted to preserve its language, religion and traditions, and its cargo fleet became the largest in the Dodecanese, allowing the islanders to achieve a high degree of culture and advanced levels of education.
Kastellorizo lost all strategic and economic importance after the 1923 Greece–Turkey population exchange. In 1928 it was ceded to the Italians, who severely oppressed the islanders. Many islanders chose to emigrate to Australia, where approximately 30,000 continue to live.
During WWII Kastellorizo suffered bombardment and English commanders ordered the few remaining inhabitants to abandon the island. Most fled to Cyprus, Palestine and Egypt. When they returned they found their houses in ruins and many re-emigrated. While the island has never fully recovered from this population loss, in recent years returnees have brought a period of resurgence and resettlement. Many returning Aussies are locked in land claim battles over their family’s property where locals have been squatting since the 1950s.
Getting There & Away
You can hop on a flight to Rhodes or wait for a ferry or catamaran, although boat services from the island are often tenuous and always infrequent. Click here for more details. For flight and ferry tickets, visit Papoutsis Travel ( 22460 70630, 6937212530; www.kastelorizo.gr) in Kastellorizo Village.
Getting Around
To reach the airport, take the sole island taxi ( 6938739178) from the port (€5), or the local community bus (€1.50). The bus leaves the square by the port 1½ hours prior to each flight departure.
BOAT
Excursion boats go to the spectacular Blue Cave (Parasta), famous for its brilliant, mirror-like blue water, produced by refracted sunlight. Visitors are transferred from a larger caïque to a small motorised dingy in order to enter the very low cave entrance – claustrophobics be warned. Inside, the cave reaches up 35m and is home to pigeons and seals. Visitors are usually allowed a quick dip. The excursion costs about €15; look for Georgos Karagiannis ( 6977855756) who runs the Varvara and Agios Georgios daily from the harbour. Boats leave at 9am and return around 1pm.
You can also take day trips to the islets of Ro and Strongyli for swims and picnics. The trips cost about €20 and boats depart around 9am from the harbour.
Join islanders on one of their frequent shopping trips to Kaş in Turkey. A day trip costs about €20 and is available from boats along the middle waterfront. Passports are required by the police 24 hours beforehand.
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KASTELLORIZO VILLAGE
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