Greece - Korina Miller [440]
Besides Mandraki, its satellite neighbourhood over the hill and to the east, Kastellorizo Village is the main settlement on the island. Built around a U-shaped bay, the village’s waterfront is skirted by imposing, spruced-up, three-storey mansions with wooden balconies and red-tiled roofs. The labyrinthine backstreets are slowly being restored and rebuilt. The village has a strong Aussie presence, adding an upbeat energy to an otherwise subdued community.
Orientation & Information
The quay is at the southern side of the bay. The central square, Plateia Ethelondon Kastellorizou, abuts the waterfront almost halfway round the bay, next to the yachting jetty. The settlements of Horafia and Mandraki are reached by ascending the wide steps at the east side of the bay.
First Aid ( 22460 45206) For emergencies and basic health needs.
National Bank of Greece ( 22460 49054) ATM equipped.
Papoutsis Travel ( 22460 70630, 22460 49356; papoutsistravel@galileo.gr) For air and sea tickets.
Police station ( 22460 49333) On the bay’s western side.
Port police ( 22460 49333) At eastern tip of the bay.
Post office ( 22460 49298) Next to the police station.
Radio Café ( 22460 49029; internet per hr €3) For internet access.
Sights
Follow a rickety metal staircase up to the Knights of St John Castle for splendid views of Turkey. Below the castle stands the museum ( 22460 49283; admission free; 7am-2pm Tue-Sun) with a collection of archaeological finds, costumes and photos. Beyond the museum, steps lead down to a coastal pathway from where more steps go up the cliff to a rock-hewn Lycian tomb with an impressive Doric facade dating back as far as the 4th century BC. There are several along the Anatolian coast in Turkey, but they are very rare in Greece.
Moni Agiou Georgiou is the largest of the monasteries that dot the island. Within its church is the subterranean Chapel of Agios Haralambos, reached by steep stone steps. Greek children were given religious instruction here during Turkish times. The church is kept locked; ask around the waterfront for the whereabouts of the caretaker. To reach the monastery (approximately 1.5km), ascend the conspicuous zigzagging white stone steps behind the village.
Moni Agiou Stefanou, on the north coast, is the setting for one of the island’s most important celebrations, the feast of Agios Stefanos on 1 August. The path to the little white monastery begins behind the post office. From the monastery, a path leads to a bay where you can swim.
Paleokastro was the island’s ancient capital. Within the old city’s Hellenistic walls are an ancient tower, a water cistern and three churches. To reach it (1km), follow the concrete steps, just beyond a soldier’s sentry box on the airport road.
Sleeping
Many of Kastellorizo’s hotels stay open year-round. Book ahead in high season to be sure of a bed.
Damien & Monika’s ( 22460 49028; www.kastellorizo.de; r €40; ) These bright, comfy rooms in the centre of town have that homey touch. Each is slightly unique with traditional furnishings, a fridge and lots of windows. You’ll also find a book exchange and heaps of local info.
Poseidon ( 22460 49257, 6945710603; www.kastelorizo-poseidon.gr; s/d €50/60) The Poseidon’s two restored houses offer large rooms with a touch of colour and character. Ground-floor rooms have private verandas; 1st-floor rooms have small balconies with big sea views. It’s on the west side of the harbour, one block back from the waterfront.
Mediterraneo ( 22460 49007; www.mediterraneo-kastelorizo.com; r €70-85) Designed and run by an architect, these stylish waterfront rooms have rustic charm with arches, stone walls and unique furnishings. All have garden or sea views and include breakfast. The hotel is at the far western tip of the harbour and very convenient for a quick harbour dip.
Eating
With tables perched precariously over the harbour edge, dining in Kastellorizo is both atmospheric and adventuresome – one false move and you are in for a swim.
Radio Café ( 22460 49029; breakfast & snacks €2-6; ) Other than internet access, this