Greece - Korina Miller [441]
Kaz Bar ( 22460 49067; mezedhes €3-6; ) For an alternative take on mezedhes, drop by this bar-cum-bistro on the middle water-front. Dig into pizza, chicken wings and spring rolls, as well as original salads, all washed down with Greek wine.
To Mikro Parisi ( 22460 49282; mains €5-7) Going strong since 1974, To Mikro Parisi still serves generous helpings of grilled fish and meat. Fish soup is the house speciality, but the rich stifadho (sweet stew cooked with tomato and onions) is equally satisfying.
Entertainment
It ain’t no Rio, but Kastellorizo’s nightlife has picked up the pace in recent years and the summer influx of Aussies certainly adds fuel. The harbour is lined with small bars and cafes that spill out onto the water’s edge as the night wears on. Kaz Bar and Meltemi are staunchly popular but follow the noise and fellow revellers and you can’t really go wrong.
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SYMI ΣΥΜΗ
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Arriving at the main harbour of Symi (see-me) is like sailing into a postcard. Restored, colourful sea captains’ houses nestle the shoreline while bright boats bob in the blue-green sea. Most visitors congregate in the cafes here, alongside the growing expat community, but the island is also home to a surprisingly green interior, a sprinkling of scattered beaches and an enormous monastery that is one of the few religious sites that warrants its own ferry connection.
Symi is one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Rhodes and a popular port of call for yachties and other sea-struck travellers. It’s also an increasingly popular holiday destination in its own right.
History
Symi has a long tradition of both sponge diving and shipbuilding. During Ottoman times it was granted the right to fish for sponges in Turkish waters. In return, Symi supplied the sultan with first-class boat builders and top-quality sponges scooped straight off the ocean floor.
This exchange brought prosperity to the island. Gracious mansions were built and culture and education flourished. By the beginning of the 20th century, the population was 22,500 and the island was launching some 500 ships a year. But the Italian occupation, the introduction of the steamship and Kalymnos’ rise as the Aegean’s principal sponge producer put an end to Symi’s prosperity.
The treaty surrendering the Dodecanese islands to the Allies was signed in Symi’s Hotel (now Pension Catherinettes, Click here) on 8 May 1945.
Getting There & Away
Catamarans, excursion boats and ANES ( 22460 71444; www.anek.gr) run regular boats between Symi and Rhodes, as well as to islands further north and to Kastellorizo. One service calls in at Panormitis on the south side of the island. See Island Hopping Click here for details.
Symi Tours runs Saturday excursions from Gialos to Datça in Turkey (including Turkish port taxes, €40).
Getting Around
BOAT
Several excursion boats do trips from Gialos Harbour to Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti and Sesklion Islet, where there’s a shady beach. Check the boards for the best-value tickets. There are also boats to Agios Emilianos beach, on the far west side of Symi.
The small water taxis ( 22460 71423) Konstantinos and Irini go to many of the island’s beaches (€10 to €15), leaving at 10.15am and 11.15am respectively.
BUS & TAXI
The bus stop and taxi rank are on the south side of the harbour in Gialos. The grey minibus ( 6945316284) makes hourly runs between Gialos and Pedi beach (via Horio; flat fare €1). The blue minibus ( 22460 71311) departs Gialos at 10am and 3pm daily for Panormitis. Taxis depart from a rank 100m west of the bus stop.
CAR
Near the Gialos clock tower, Glaros ( 22460 71926, 6948362079; www.glarosrentacar.gr; Gialos) hires cars for around €25 and scooters for €10.
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GIALOS ΓΙΑΛΟΣ
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Gialos, Symi’s port, is a visual treat. Neoclassical mansions in a medley of colours are heaped up the hills flanking its harbour of crystal-clear water.