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Greece - Korina Miller [442]

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Most facilities and transport are based here, along with lots of seaside cafes where you can sip iced coffee and watch the slow bustle of the harbour.

The old town, Horio, is a steep climb from the harbour but is a great place to lose yourself for a while. Stepped alleys and zigzagging lanes take you past traditional homes, cafes, derelict buildings and churches, with gorgeous views down to the sea.

Orientation & Information

The town is divided into two parts: Gialos, the harbour; and Horio above it, crowned by the kastro (castle). Arriving ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans dock just to the left of the quay’s clock tower; excursion boats dock a little further along. Ferries can depart from either side of the harbour so check when you buy your ticket. The harbour and the promenade running southwest from its centre are the hub of Gialos activity. Kali Strata, a broad stairway, leads from here to hilltop Horio.

There is no official tourist office in Symi Town. The Symi Visitor is a free English-and-Greek-language newspaper distributed by portside newspaper vendors and restaurants.

Kalodoukas Holidays ( 22460 71077; www.kalodoukas.gr) At the beginning of Kali Strata; rents houses and organises excursions.

National Bank of Greece ( 22460 72294) On the western side of the harbour with an ATM. There’s a second ATM at the Co-operative Bank across the harbour.

Police ( 22460 71111) By the ferry quay.

Port police ( 22460 71205) By the ferry quay.

Post office ( 22460 71315) By the ferry quay.

Roloï bar ( 22460 71595; internet per hr €2; 9am-3am) For internet access; a block back from the waterfront.

Symi Tours ( 22460 71307; fax 22460 72292; www.symitours.com) Half a block back from east side of harbour. Does excursions, including to Datça in Turkey.

Symi Visitor Office ( 22460 72755) Small yellow building on the harbour front.

Victoria Laundry ( 22460 70065) At the foot of Kali Strata.

www.symivisitor.com A useful source of island information with an accommodation-booking service.

Sights

Horio is a warren of narrow streets zigzagging between brightly coloured buildings and crumbling remnants. This old town is still very much lived in, with a number of churches, a school and plenty of homes. It’s a pleasant place to wander but looking for somewhere in particular is a bit like a scavenger hunt; it’s a good idea to ask directions as you go.

Perched at the top of Horio is the Knights of St John Kastro. The kastro incorporates blocks from the ancient acropolis and the Church of Megali Panagia is within its walls. You can reach the castle through the maze of Horio’s cobbled pedestrian streets or along a road that runs southeast of Gialos.

En route to the kastro and signposted from the stop of Kali Strata, the Archaeological & Folklore Museum (admission €2; 10am-2pm Tue-Sun) has Hellenistic, Byzantine and Roman exhibits, as well as some folkloric material. The nearby Chatziagapitos House is a restored 18th-century mansion that you can look around when the museum is open.

Take a left from the top of Kali Strata for the ruins of Pontiko Kastro, a stone circle thought to date back to the Neolithic period. The site is only partially excavated and was locked at the time of research but offers great views.

Behind the children’s playground in the port of Gialos, the Nautical Museum (admission €2; 11am-4pm Tue-Sun) details Symi’s shipbuilding history and has wooden models of ships and other naval memorabilia.

Activities

Symi Tours ( 22460 71307; fax 22460 72292) has multilingual guides who lead guided walks around the island, often ending with a boat ride back to Galios. The publication Walks in Symi by Lance Chiltern lists 20 walks on the island for novices and pros alike. Call into the Symi Visitor Office ( 22460 72755) to purchase a copy.

Sleeping

Hotel Fiona ( 22460 72088; www.symivisitor.com/Fiona.htm; Horio; d €50; ) With welcome breezes and big sea views from the balcony, Fiona’s is a comfortable place to stay. Rooms are very clean with hand-painted furnishings, tiled floors and a small fridge. To reach it, turn

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