Greece - Korina Miller [443]
Hotel Kokona ( 22460 71549, 6937659035; kokonafo@otenet.gr; Gialos; d €50; ) One block inland from the harbour and not far from the children’s playground, this hotel has comfortable, tidy rooms that are a stone’s throw from the action but in a quieter corner of town. A few have balconies overlooking a small square with a church.
Pension Catherinettes ( 22460 71671; marina-epe@rho.forthnet.gr; Gialos; d €55; ) The historic Catherinettes is on the north side of the harbour. Rooms are basic but large and airy. The halls have traditional hand-painted ceilings, as do a few of the rooms. Small balconies overlook the harbour.
Hotel Pantheon ( 6932329202; Kali Strata, Horio; d from €80; ) Located halfway up Kali Strata, this restored traditional house has five plush new rooms decked out with antique wooden furniture and well-equipped kitchenettes. Rooms vary in size and layout but all are comfortable and homey. The rooftop veranda offers stellar views.
Eating
In Gialos eateries line the harbour; in Horio they tend to be clustered at the top of Kali Strata.
GIALOS
Stani ( 22460 71307; sweets €1-4) Tucked away on a pedestrian street, a block up from the middle harbour, this divine bakery creates local sweets, truffles, cakes and crème brÛlée. The perfect stop for some gourmet picnic treats.
Mythos Restaurant ( 22460 71488; mezedhes €6-12) This lively harbour-side taverna serves up imaginative food. Try fisherman’s risotto, calamari stuffed with pesto, or fish-fillet parcels in a saffron cream sauce. And don’t miss the pears stuffed with honey and almond for pudding. Live music and dancing accompanies dinner in the evenings.
O Meraklis ( 22460 71003; mains €7-10) A block back from the seafront, this deservedly popular restaurant whips up some amazing dishes. Try macaroni with pistachio and swordfish or stuffed tomatoes. Tables overflow onto the pedestrianised street.
HORIO
Olive Tree ( 22460 72681; Horio; light meals €2-5; 8am-8pm year-round) A cool retreat where you can relax on comfy sofas while savouring excellent home baking (like yummy muffins and cookies), homemade quiche or fresh rolls made to order. There are lots of vegie options (try cheese and red-pepper chutney toasties) and the kids will be kept busy with crayons and books. It’s a particularly good spot for breakfast – smoothies, yoghurt with honey and fruit salad or homemade muesli will set you up for the day. Takeaway available. It’s across from Hotel Fiona.
Restaurant Syllogos ( 22460 72148; Kali Strata; mains €5-7) At the top of the stairs, Syllogos offers imaginative fare such as chicken with prunes, pork with leek, fish with rosemary and tomato, plus vegetarian options like artichokes in egg and lemon sauce, or spanakopita (spinach pie).
Giorgos ( 22460 71984; mains €6-9) The menu here changes regularly but has enticing oven-cooked dishes like chicken stuffed with rice, herbs and pine nuts, lamb in vine leaves, or stuffed onions.
Drinking
Akrogiali Cafe ( 6948191637; year-round) Right on the water’s edge on the east side of the harbour, this is a great place to sip fresh juice, coffee or something stronger from the well-stocked bar.
Eva ( 22460 71372) A Havana-like vibe has seeped into this cool cafe, with antique sofas, funky music and a view across the harbour. In the day, get your caffeine fix here; in the evenings, it’s a great place for drinks.
Jean and Tonic Bar ( 22460 71819; Kali Strata; 9pm-late) Feeling homesick for the 80s? Join Barry White, Tina Turner and the expat crowd for a G&T or two.
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AROUND SYMI
Pedi is a little fishing village and busy mini-holiday resort in a fertile valley 2km downhill from Horio. It has some sandy stretches on its narrow beach and there are private rooms and studios to rent, as well as hotels and tavernas. The Pedi Beach Hotel ( 22460 71981; www.blueseahotel.gr; Pedi; d €90; ) has simple rooms decorated in white and dark wood that open on to the beach. Walking tracks down both sides of Pedi Bay lead to Agia Marina beach on the