Greece - Korina Miller [445]
Getting There & Away
The Tilos-owned Sea Star ( 22460 44000; fax 22460 44044) connects the island with Rhodes. Mainland ferries erratically link Tilos to Piraeus, Rhodes and nearby islands in the Dodecanese. See Island Hopping Click here for more details. Tickets are sold at Stefanakis Travel (opposite) in Livadia.
Getting Around
A bus ploughs up and down the island’s main road seven times daily, with the first departure from Livadia at 8.20am and the last return from Megal Horio at 10.15pm. The timetable is posted at the bus stop in the square in Livadia. Stops include Megalo Horio (€1), Eristos Beach (€1.20) and Agios Andonis (€1.50). On Sunday there is a special excursion bus to Moni Agiou Panteleimona (€4 return), leaving Livadia at 11am with one hour at the monastery. For taxis ring 6944981727 or 6945200436.
During summer there are various excursions offered from Livadia to isolated beaches. Look for posters around Livadia for more information.
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LIVADIA ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙΑ
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The main village and port, Livadia is a sleepy, pleasant place. It’s got no wow factor with architecture or sights but knows how to relax. The waterfront walkway is great for strolling, with the sea lapping at your feet and a handful of cafes and restaurants lining the shore. In the village you will find most services and shops, as well as most of the island’s accommodation.
Orientation & Information
All arrivals are at Livadia. The small port is 300m southeast of the village centre. Tilos has no official tourist bureau. The Bank of the Dodecanese has a branch and an ATM in Livadia. The post office is on the central square.
Clinic ( 22460 44171; noon-5pm) Behind the church.
Kosmos ( 22460 44074; www.tilos-kosmos.com; internet per hr €5; 9.30am-1pm & 7-11.30pm) A gift shop with internet access. Its website is a useful source of information on Tilos. It also has a book exchange and new books for sale.
Police ( 22460 44222) In the white Italianate building at the quay.
Port police ( 22460 44350) On the harbour.
Remetzo ( 22460 44214; internet per hr €2) Next to the ferry dock. Play pool or nibble at the deli while waiting for one of two computers.
Sea Star ( 22460 44000; sea-star@otenet.gr) Sells tickets for the Sea Star catamaran.
Stefanakis Travel ( 22460 44310) Between the port and Livadia village; has ferry tickets and car hire.
Tilos Park Association ( 22460 70880; www.tilos-park.org.gr) An umbrella group promoting ecological conservation on Tilos. Has a summertime kiosk on the waterfront.
Tilos Travel ( 22460 44294; www.tilostravel.co.uk) At the port; has helpful staff but open in summer only. Credit card withdrawals and currency exchange are available, as well as book exchange and car and mountain-bike hire.
Sights & Activities
MIKRO HORIO
Not far from Livadia, Tilos’ original settlement was built inland as protection from pirates. The last inhabitants left in the 1960s, mainly due to water scarcity. Wandering around is fascinating, with houses in various states of abandonment. A couple have even been restored, with owners hoping to return.
WALKS
Due to its agricultural past, Tilos is riddled with terraced landscapes and trails once used by farmers to reach distant crops. Today many of these trails are used by those wanting to stretch their legs.
A 3km walk heads north of Livadia to Lethra Beach, an undeveloped pebble-and-sand cove with limited shade. The trail starts at the far north side of the port; follow the tarmac behind Ilidi Rock Hotel to the start of the footpath. The path is well maintained, fairly easy and very scenic; even if you don’t make it as far as the beach, it’s a worthwhile jaunt. Returning via the very picturesque Potami Gorge brings you to the main island highway.
A second walk is a longer return track to the small abandoned settlement of Yera and its accompanying beach at Despoti Nero. From Livadia, follow