Greece - Korina Miller [446]
Tilos Trails ( 22460 44128, 6946054593; www.tilostrails.com; per person €25) are licensed guides who conduct a number of walks of various levels around the island.
Sleeping
Kosmos Studios ( 22460 44164; www.tilos-kosmos.com; apt €45) Set in a garden close to the beach, these four self-catering units are spacious and private. Each has a sunny front balcony and a shaded veranda at the back. Call into Kosmos gift shop in town to enquire.
Olympus Apartments ( 22460 44324; www.tilosisland.com; d/tr €50/60;) All rooms have amazingly well-equipped kitchens, good sea views and balconies. Village-style rooms have added character with built-in beds and traditional decor. There’s also a family room with loft, but no views.
Anna’s Studios ( 22460 44334; www.annas-studios.com; d €55) Just above the ferry dock on the north side of the bay, Anna’s rooms are very homey and spacious. Gorgeous views and big balconies, kitchenettes and hand-painted wood furnishings make it a perfect home away from home. Family rooms have a second bedroom.
Hotel Irini ( 22460 44293; www.tilosholidays.gr; s/d incl breakfast €50/65; ) Set back a little from the waterfront, this hotel is ensconced in a citrus garden with a palm-fringed pool. Rooms are comfortable though simple, all with balconies and some with sea views. The lobby and lounging areas are bright and cheerful. The hotel has a cafe, serving fresh juice, homemade cakes and sandwiches.
Livadia Beach Apartments ( 22460 44397; www.tilosisland.com; apt €70-85; ) Right on the seafront and set around a colourful garden, these spacious, modern rooms are extremely comfortable with tiled balconies, plush sofas and great kitchens. There’s also an alfresco cafe.
Eating
For picnics and self-catering, there are three grocery stores in Livadia with lots of fresh local produce.
Spitico ( 22460 44340; snacks €2-3) Overlooking the square, this cafe makes great coffee, cheese pies and local sweets. Sit on the big veranda and watch the world go by.
To Mikro Kare (snacks €2-5, mains €3-12; 6.30pm-late Mon-Fri, 4pm-late Sat & Sun) A recently renovated traditional stone house, this seaside eatery oozes atmosphere. Wooden rafters, portholes and nautical embellishments make it very cosy. Have sandwiches and salads while playing board games in the bar or head up to the dining room for fresh seafood.
Armenon ( 22460 44134; mains €3.50-7) On a lively seaside veranda, dine on shrimp baked with feta and tomato or pork with rosemary, thyme and honey. All produce is local, including Armenon’s own honey and olive oil.
Taverna Trata ( 22460 44364; mains €8-12) The friendly proprietors serve up fresh fish, kalamari, goat in tomato sauce and shrimp. Dine on the tree-canopied veranda amidst pretty lanterns and watch them prepare your meal on the outdoor grill. Follow your nose up from the seafront, 100m past the square.
Drinking
Cafe Bar Georges ( 22460 44257) This stone building located on the square is very much a working-men’s hangout – the kind of place you can lounge in for hours. It might take you that long to take in the random collection of orchids, Chinese New Year ornaments and nautical paraphernalia found here. Drink at handmade wooden tables and join in the local banter.
Paralia Cafe Bar ( 22460 44442) With a glass wall providing a huge view of the lapping waves, this stylish bar serves cocktails, coffees and an excellent selection of teas. Relax on big cushions and comfy sofas while listening to Greek pop music or playing monopoly.
Shopping
A number of shops in Livadia have come up aces with local goods to sell. Head to Nefeli ( 22460 44246) on the square for honey, preserves (like aubergine or cherry) and dried spices all produced locally.
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MEGALO HORIO ΜΕΓΑΛΟ ΧΩΡΙΟ
pop 50
Megalo Horio, the island’s tiny capital, is a quiet whitewashed village with winding alleyways. If you’re looking for a taste of rural life,