Greece - Korina Miller [447]
Miliou Studios ( 22460 44204; d €40) has rooms in a tree-shaded garden. Each has a balcony looking towards the sea. Dine at the Castle ( 22460 44232; mains €5-6.50), on the village’s south side, with beautiful views of the bay. The menu features charcoal-grilled meats, including organic goat, locally raised pork and fresh fish. There’s also a small grocery store in town.
On the road to Livadia or a short footpath away from Megalo Horio is the splendid Joanna’s Resto-Bar ( 22460 44145; mains €8-12; 7pm-late, May-Sep). Set in a lush, peaceful garden, Joanna’s serve authentic Italian antipasto, stone-baked pizza and homemade cakes and puddings.
Megalo Horio’s bus station is at the bottom of town.
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AROUND MEGALO HORIO
Just before Megalo Horio, a turn-off to the left leads 2.5km to the tamarisk-shaded Eristos Beach, a mixture of gritty sand and shingle. You’ll find a payphone, seasonal kiosk and volleyball net that sees action in the summer. In winter, the beach has its share of rubbish but it’s cleaned up for the summer. Buses don’t stop here on Sundays or out of season unless you ask the driver.
Just off the beach is Eristos Beach Hotel ( /fax 22460 44025; d €32; ), surrounded by orange, lemon and palm trees. Decent-sized balconies look out to sea; airy studios with kitchenettes sleep up to four. There is also an on-site restaurant, a bar and a lovely pool.
Nafsika Cafe ( 22460 44306; mains €4-8) has big windows, lots of light and tables in the flower-filled garden. The menu is standard but all home cooked, the coffee is great and the atmosphere is tranquil. Tropicana Taverna ( 22460 44020; mains €3.60-5.50), on the road up from the beach, serves traditional food with fresh vegies from its farm. Try the scrumptious revythokeftedhes (chickpea rissoles).
A signposted turn-off to the right from the junction leads to the quiet settlement of Agios Antonios. A further 3km west is the undeveloped, pretty Plaka Beach. It’s situated in a cove where the water is slightly warmer and has natural shade in the afternoon. Once you wade in a little, the rock shelves are good for snorkelling.
The 18th-century, uninhabited Moni Agiou Panteleimona is 5km beyond here, along a scenic, winding road. It’s uninhabited but fairly well maintained. Inside, the frescoes have mostly disappeared but the wooden altar is intricately carved and painted and the masonry is quite compelling. There are picnic benches and a stream-fed spout, ready for the lively three-day festival that takes place from 25 July. Outside of that, you probably won’t find anyone here; in fact they may just leave the key in the door. On summer Sundays the island’s minibus driver runs excursions here.
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NISYROS ΝΙΣΥΡΟΣ
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Nisyros (ni-see-ross) tumbles down to the sea from its central volcano. Nearly round and built of pumice and rock, the island’s volcanic soil makes it phenomenally fertile, drawing botanists and gardeners from around the world to see its unique flora. You don’t come to Nisyros for its beaches (which aren’t great). You come to stand in the centre of its hissing volcano, to explore its less touristy villages, to hike along its lush slopes and to dine on amazing local produce. Most visitors only make it for a day trip. Spend a couple of days to truly appreciate its beauty.
Getting There & Away
Nisyros is linked by regular ferries to Rhodes, Kos and Piraeus. The Dodekanisos Pride catamaran calls in with connections to neighbouring Dodecanese islands. Two small local ferries link Mandraki with Kardamena on Kos and Kos Town. See Island Hopping