Greece - Korina Miller [448]
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UNSPRUNG
With a steaming volcano set in the middle of the Aegean Sea, it seems only natural that Nisyros would also be home to hot springs. In fact, since the time of Hippocrates, folks have been visiting the springs at Pali for their supposed medicinal properties. The Egyptians loved the springs so much, they built a luxurious palace around them for regular bathing in the early 1800s. When the owner of the palace died, his son emptied the palace of its bling and hit the sea, leaving the building to turn to rubble.
Generations later, the springs called again and a great-grandson returned to rebuild in the 1980s. He planned a luxury hotel and got as far as erecting the outer structure, which continues to dominate Pali’s coastline. Unfortunately, for reasons unverified he packed up and left, leaving an empty, half-built hotel and no access to the springs. If you listen carefully, you might still hear the springs’ muted call from beneath the concrete, but you’ll have to be satisfied with steaming yourself at the volcano’s caldera instead.
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Getting Around
BOAT
In July and August there are excursion boats (return €10) to the pumice-stone islet of Giali, where there’s a relaxing, sandy beach.
BUS
In summer, bus companies run up to 10 excursion buses daily between 9.30am and 3pm (€7.50 return) that give you about 40 minutes at the volcano. In addition, three daily buses travel to Nikea (€2) via Pali. The bus stop is located at Madraki’s port.
CAR, MOTORCYCLE & TAXI
Manos Rentals ( 22420 31029) on the quay is the most handy for motorbikes. For cars, try Diakomihalis ( 22420 31459, 6977735229) in town.
For a cab call 6989969810, 22420 31460 or 22420 22420. A taxi from Mandraki to the volcano costs €20 return, to Nikea €11 and to Pali €5.
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MANDRAKI ΜΑΝΔΡΑΚΙ
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Mandraki is the port and main village of Nisyros and is a wonderful place to explore. Wander through the maze of residential alleyways, passing houses with brightly painted balconies, drying laundry and children playing outside. In Mandraki you get a real sense of sneaking a peak at the ‘real’ Greece. It has a couple of worthwhile sights, good eating options and comfortable places to stay.
Orientation & Information
The port is 500m northeast of the centre of Mandraki. Take the road right from the port and you will hit the town centre. A couple of blocks up, you’ll come to a Y-junction. Head left to reach the tree-shaded Plateia Ilikiomenis, Mandraki’s focal point. Head right along the main drag for signs for the monastery and castle.
The Co-operative Bank of the Dodecanese has an ATM at the harbour and a branch in Mandraki.
Diakomihalis ( 22420 31015; diakomihalis@kos.forthnet.gr; Mandraki) Sells ferry tickets and hires cars.
Enetikon Travel ( 22420 31180; agiosnis@otenet.gr) Provides tourist information; 100m from the quay towards Mandraki.
Police ( 22420 31201) Opposite the quay.
Port police ( 22420 31222) Opposite the quay.
Post office ( 22420 31249) Opposite the quay.
Proveza Internet Cafe ( 22420 31618; per 30min €1.40; ) Internet and wi-fi along with freshly ground coffee and MTV videos. On the waterfront.
www.nisyros.com Photos and articles about Nisyros, contributed by readers.
www.nisyros.gr Info on sights, history and the environment.
Sights
Towering over Mandraki is the 14th-century cliff-top Moni Panagias Spilianis (Virgin of the Cave; 22420 31125; admission by donation; 10.30am-3pm). There’s not a huge amount to see, other than a few exhibits on the way up and a room lined with impressive icons, but the views from the top are spectacular. Turn right at the end of the main street to reach the signposted stairs up to the monastery. On the way up, you’ll pass the Cultural Museum (admission €0.50; 10am-3pm May-Sep), which has traditional objects like a bed, grinding tools, and clothing. It’s not earth-shattering but worth a gander.
Nearby, near the seafront and beneath the original cave of the monastery, lies the Church Museum (admission €0.50;