Greece - Korina Miller [449]
In town, the brand new Archaeological Museum was due to open at the time of research. If a sneak peek was anything to go by, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Above Mandraki, the impressive Mycenaean-era acropolis, Paleokastro (Old Kastro) has restored 4th-century Cyclopean walls built from massive blocks of volcanic rock that you can perch atop for breathtaking views. There are good explanatory notes in English throughout the site. Follow the route signposted ‘kastro’, heading southwest from the monastery steps. This eventually leads up some stairs and becomes a path through beautiful, lush scenery. At the road, turn right and the kastro is on the left. You can drive here too.
Hohlaki is a black-stone beach and can usually be relied upon for swimming unless the wind is up, when the water can get rough. It’s on the western side of Moni Panagias Spilianis and is reached by a paved footpath around the headland. Don’t attempt this walk in bad weather as you can get washed right off the path. The small sandy Mandraki beach, halfway between the port and the village centre, is popular and OK for swimming but sometimes covered in seaweed.
Sleeping
Mandraki has fairly limited accommodation options. Book ahead to be assured of a bed in July and August.
Three Brothers Hotel ( 22420 31344; iiibrothers@kos.forthnet.gr; s/d/studio €30/40/60; ) This welcoming, family-run hotel has smallish but well-maintained rooms with balconies and a few spacious, high-ceilinged studios with kitchenettes and verandas. All rooms have a small fridge and most have sea views. Next to the port, it’s very handy for ferries.
Hotel Xenon ( 22420 31011; d incl breakfast €50; ) These spotless, standard rooms are nothing special but are positioned right over the water. The hotel has a seaside pool.
Hotel Porfyris ( 22420 31376; diethnes@otenet.gr; d incl breakfast €55; ) Near Plateia Ilikiomenis, this hotel was once grand but has now relaxed into a comfortable state. Standard rooms with new bathrooms are none too big but have balconies with views of the sea or the mountain. Breakfast on the veranda and swim in the refreshing pool.
Ta Liotridia ( 22420 31580; www.nisyros-taliotridia.gr; apt €100; ) Along the waterfront, this stone building used to house oil presses. They’re now luxurious rooms decorated in traditional style with raised beds, stone archways and classic furnishings. Expect fantastic sea views from the balcony. Apartments sleep four and have full kitchens.
Eating
Ask for the island speciality, pitties (chickpea and onion patties) and wash them down with a refreshing soumada, a nonalcoholic local beverage made from almond extract.
Bakery Pali ( 22420 31448; snacks €1-3) A block up from the waterfront, this is the place to come for traditional Nisirian breads and cakes, pastries and pies. Pack them along for a picnic or, if you can’t wait that long, polish them off sitting by the fountain outside.
Taverna Panorama ( 22420 31185; grills €3-5) Just off Plateia Ilikiomenis, heading towards Hotel Porfyris, this little family-run joint dishes up traditional fare. Try the seftelies (Cypriot-style herb-laced sausages).
Restaurant Irini ( 22420 31365; Plateia Ilikiomenis; mains €3-6) Ignore the big tourist boards outside; dining here may make you wonder if you’ve entered Irini’s own dining room. You’ll be treated like family with big dishes of great home cooking. Try the excellent dolmadhes, aubergine salad, grilled meat and fish dishes and leave room for the amazing puddings.
Kleanthes Taverna ( 22420 31484; mains €6-12) On the seafront with views of the monastery and Kos, this restaurant is popular with locals for its fresh fish soup, mussels with rice, grilled beefburgers and baked feta.
Drinking
Plateia Ilikiomenis is lined with cafes and bars, as is the waterfront. Ta Liotridia (above) has an atmospheric music bar for an evening