Greece - Korina Miller [450]
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AROUND NISYROS
The Volcano Το Ηφαστειο
Nisyros is on a volcanic line that passes through the islands of Aegina, Paros, Milos, Santorini, Nisyros, Giali and Kos. The island originally culminated in a mountain of 850m, but the centre collapsed 30,000 to 40,000 years ago after three violent eruptions. Their legacy are the white-and-orange pumice stones that can still be seen on the northern, eastern and southern flanks of the island, and the large lava flow that covers the whole southwest, around Nikea village.
Another violent eruption occurred in 1422 on the western side of the caldera depression (called Lakki); this, like all other eruptions since, emitted steam, gases and mud, but no lava. The islanders call the volcano Polyvotis because, during the Great War between the gods and the Titans, the Titan Polyvotis annoyed Poseidon so much that the god tore off a chunk of Kos and threw it at him. This rock pinned Polyvotis under it and became the island of Nisyros. The hapless Polyvotis from that day forth has been groaning and sighing while trying to escape.
Descending into the caldera (admission €2.50; 9am-8pm) is other-worldly. Cows graze near the crater’s edge, amidst red, green and orange rocks. A not-so-obvious and unsignposted path descends into the largest of the five craters, Stefanos, where you can examine the multicoloured fumaroles, listen to their hissing and smell their sulphurous vapours. The surface is soft and hot, making sturdy footwear essential. Don’t stray too far out as the ground is unstable and can collapse. Also be careful not to step into a fumarole as the gases are 100°C and corrosive. Another unsignposted but more obvious track leads to Polyvotis, which is smaller and wilder looking, but doesn’t allow access to the caldera itself. The fumaroles are around the edge here so be very careful.
You can reach the volcano by bus, car or along a 3km-long trail from Nikia. Get there before 11am and you may have the place entirely to yourself.
Emborios & Nikea Εμπορειóς & Νκαια
Emborios and Nikea perch on the volcano’s rim. From each, there are stunning views down into the caldera. Only a handful of inhabitants linger on in Emborios. You may encounter a few elderly women sitting on their doorsteps crocheting, their husbands at the kafeneio (coffee house).
Ainria Taverna ( 22420 31377; Embrosios; mains €3-12), located behind the church, is the big draw in Embrosiois. It’s impossible to go wrong with this menu: the country salad, meatballs, stuffed peppers, baked cheese, tomato and aubergine, and seafood are all truly gourmet. The bright decor of the traditional wooden building makes it a comfortable place to linger over a scrumptious meal.
In contrast to Emborios, picturesque Nikea, with 35 inhabitants, buzzes with life. It has dazzling white houses with vibrant gardens and a lovely mosaic-tiled central square. The bus terminates on Plateia Nikolaou Hartofyli from where Nikea’s main street links the two squares. At the edge of town is the Volcanological Museum ( 22420 31400; 11am-3pm May-Sep) detailing the history of the volcano and its effects on the island. In the village’s main square, Cafe Porta Pangiotis ( 22420 31285) is a cheerful, homey place to get coffee or a cool drink.
The steep path down to the volcano begins from Plateia Nikolaou Hartofyli. It takes about 40 minutes to walk it one way. Near the beginning you can detour to the signposted Moni Agiou Ioanni Theologou, where there is an annual feast on 25 to 26 September.
Pali Πλοι
Pali is a small harbour with fishing boats and yacht anchorage. While its own beach is not very good, it’s en route to Lies, Nisyros’ most usable beach, about 5.5km around the coast. The first narrow stretch of Lies