Greece - Korina Miller [451]
If you decide to stick around Pali, head for one of the 12 comfy self-contained studios at Mammis’ Apartments ( 22420 31453; www.mammis.com; d €50; year-round; ), on the road to Mandraki. Set back from the sea in lush gardens, they each have a private entrance and balcony with views.
For dining in Pali, head for Captain’s House ( 22420 31016; mains €4-8), where you can watch the fishermen unravel their nets as you breakfast on eggs, local sausage or yoghurt and honey. Later in the day, come here for mousakas and fresh fish.
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KOS ΚΩΣ
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With some of the Dodecanese’ very best beaches, impressive archaeological sites and a lush interior, it’s hardly surprising that Kos (koss) is such a popular destination. Kos Town has a wonderful vibe and is an excellent base, catering to everyone from upmarket tourists to backpackers after a party. When you tire of the crowds, there are plenty of places to spread out – long, sandy beaches, hilltop villages and remote coves. You won’t have the island to yourself, but some things are worth sharing.
History
Kos’ fertile land attracted settlers from the earliest days. So many people lived here by Mycenaean times that it sent 30 ships to the Trojan War. During the 7th and 6th centuries BC, Kos prospered as an ally of the powerful Rhodian cities of Ialysos, Kamiros and Lindos. In 477 BC, after suffering an earthquake and subjugation to the Persians, it joined the Delian League and again flourished.
Hippocrates (460–377 BC), the Ancient Greek physician known as the founder of medicine, was born and lived on the island. After Hippocrates’ death, the Sanctuary of Asclepius and a medical school were built, which perpetuated his teachings and made Kos famous throughout the Greek world.
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DROPPING IN ON THE NEIGHBOURS
From most of the Dodecanese Islands, Turkey looms large on the horizon. At times it appears so close, you feel like you can reach out and touch it. And you can. Day and overnight excursions run from a number of ports, making it easy to get a glimpse into the rich culture next door. Here are a few of the options.
Rhodes to Marmaris – A tourist hotspot, Marmaris has a bustling harbour and bazaar, a buzzing nightlife and is the yachty capital of Turkey. Not far away is an unspoilt, azure coastline backed by pine-covered mountains.
Kastellorizo to Kaş – Kaş is a mellow town where you can relax in shady tea gardens, watch fishermen bring in their catch or wander through the shops and boutiques. There are some nearby ruins and an increasing array of adventure activities to keep you busy. Paragliding anyone?
Symi to Datça – With small sandy beaches and a pretty harbour, Datça Click here appeals to European tourists and trendy Istanbulis and is a family-friendly destination. With no sights, it’s a good place to just kick back and absorb Turkish culture.
Kos to Bodrum – Bodrum (below) may be a big resort town with an influx of tourists, but it’s also got lots of charm, stylish restaurants and a gorgeous new marina. The Museum of Underwater Archaeology is worth a visit.
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Ptolemy II of Egypt was born on Kos, thus securing it the protection of Egypt, under which it became a prosperous trading centre. In 130 BC Kos fell under Roman domination, and in the 1st century AD it was administered by Rhodes, with whom it has since shared the same ups and downs of fortune, including the influential tourist trade of the present day.
Getting There & Away
AIR
There are regular flights to Athens, Rhodes, Leros and Astypalea with Olympic Air ( 22420 28330; Vasileos Pavlou 22). See Island Hopping Click here for more details.
BOAT
Domestic
Kos is well connected to Piraeus and all the islands in the Dodecanese, as well as to the Cyclades, Samos and Thessaloniki. Services are offered by three ferry