Greece - Korina Miller [456]
The ruins occupy three levels. The propylaea (approach to the main gate), Roman-era public baths and remains of guest rooms are on the 1st level. On the 2nd level is a 4th-century-BC altar of Kyparissios Apollo. West of this is the first Temple of Asclepius, built in the 4th century BC. To the east is the 1st-century-BC Temple to Apollo. On the 3rd level are the remains of the once-magnificent 2nd-century-BC Temple of Asclepius.
The hourly bus 3 and the Tourist Train (left) go to the site. It’s also a pleasant cycle or walk.
Mastihari Μαστιχρι
Known for its party scene but also gaining popularity with families, little Mastihari caters to independent travellers after a beach holiday and is a popular alternative to Kos Town. With a wide, sandy beach that gets a summer breeze, the village itself feels somewhat like a seasonal resort and is very quite outside summer. If the scene gets too much for you, excursion boats run to the island of Pserimos, where you can escape for a day to its protected sandy beach and convenient tavernas. Just 30km from Kos Town, Mastihari is also an arrival/departure point for ferries to Pothia on Kalymnos.
You’ll find plenty of places to stay a block back from the seafront. Athina Studios ( 22420 59030; www.athinas-studios.gr; d €35) offers bougainvillea-strewn apartments that are airy, immaculate and feel like new, with full kitchen facilities. On the same street, To Kyma ( 22420 59045; www.kyma.kosweb.com; s/d €30/35) is a family-run hotel with smallish, simple rooms right next to the beach. Half enjoy sea views.
The beachfront is lined with restaurants and cafes, many offering children’s menus. Right on the harbour, the busy Kali Kardia Restaurant ( 22420 59289; fish €6-12) is popular with locals. With fresh seafood, decent pasta and a sea breeze, you can see why.
Chill-Out Cafe ( 22420 59192) offers a bit of an escape in the day and is a cool place to hang out in the evening. Look for greeting-card-style swirly decor, a well-stocked bar and comfy chairs.
Mountain Villages
The villages scattered on the northern green slopes of the Dikeos mountain range are a great place for exploring. At Zipari, 10km from the capital, a road to the southeast leads to Asfendiou. En route, 3km past Zipari, stop in at Taverna Panorama ( 22420 69367; mains €6-10; lunch & dinner) for coastal views, traditional cuisine and good mezedhes served to a primarily Greek clientele.
From Asfendiou, a turn-off to the right leads to the village of Zia, which pulls in coachloads of tourists for its sunset views. The main square of Zia is chock-a-block with restaurants. Head to Niotis Jazz Cafe ( 6947412440; mains €3-7) for friendly service and great music; the food here is simple (salads, pasta, crêpes and burgers). If you find Zia too packed, the Village Tavern ( 22420 69918; mains €2-6) offers sausages, gyros (meat slivers cooked on a vertical rotisserie; usually eaten with pitta bread), zucchini balls and grilled feta that you can take away to find your own roadside view. At the top of the village, follow the rough staircase to Kefalovrysi ( 22420 69605; mains €5-8) for well-priced, first-class traditional dishes in leafy surroundings with a great vista.
Returning north from Zia, take a left and follow signs for Pyli. Just before the village, a left turn leads to the extensive ruins of the medieval village of Old Pyli where a well-marked trail leads past the remains of houses and up to the castle. A number of the chapels on the site are currently being restored and many of the Byzantine gates and archways are still largely intact. Watch out for tortoises, too! Good footwear and a little stamina are a must. It’s a great place to picnic;