Greece - Korina Miller [457]
Kamari & Kefalos Bay Καμρι & Κέφαλος
South from Mastihari, join the main road at Antimahia and continue southwest to the huge Kefalos Bay, fringed by a 12km stretch of incredible sand. Don’t be put off by the tacky strip of tourist shops, restaurants and hotels behind on the main road. These divine beaches are idyllic, backed by green hills and lapped by warm water. The stretch is roughly divided into seven, each signposted from the main road. The most popular is Paradise Beach, while the most undeveloped is Exotic Beach; Banana Beach (also known as Langada Beach) is a good compromise.
Agios Stefanos Beach, at the far western end, is reached along a short turn-off from the main road and worth a visit to see the island of Agios Stefanos. Within swimming distance, this tiny island is home to the ruins of two 5th-century basilicas and to another lovely, sandy beach.
Further down the road, you’ll reach Kamari Beach, an elongated holiday resort strip packed with restaurants, accommodation and shops that have spread to the main road with English brekkies and Yorkshire puddings. The bay itself is filled with bobbing fishing boats and the beach is most accessible east of the resort. You’ll find a small Tourism Office next to the beachside bus stop and an ATM on the top road. Excursion boats leave from here for Nisyros (€16) two or three times weekly. There are also daily boats to Paradise Beach in the summer, departing at 10.30am and returning at 5.30pm
About 150m north of the Kamari seafront bus stop you’ll find accommodation at Anthoula Studios ( 22420 71904; studios €40), a spotless set of airy, roomy studios surrounded by a vegetable garden.
For something a little more authentic, head up to Kefalos, a traditional village perched high above the beach that indulges little in tourism. Have a coffee with the locals, dine in time-honoured tavernas and wander about to catch a glimpse of village life. For a surreal experience, visit Cafe Neo (snacks €1-3). Entering this blue stone building, you’ll feel like you’ve wandered into someone’s home. With a couple of benches, a wood stove, walls filled with photos and an owner who makes a mean coffee, marmalade and lace, this is a popular haunt with neighbours. You’ll find it behind the church. The central square, where the bus from Kos Town terminates, has a post office and bank with an ATM.
The southern peninsula has the island’s wildest and most rugged scenery. Agios Theologos Beach is at the end of a winding road that’s dotted with tiny churches. The beach is surf-battered and the waters tempestuous but it’s a beautiful setting and worlds away from resort-land. On the beach is the seasonal Restaurant Agios Theologos ( 6974503556; mains €6-15), which enjoys the best sunsets in Kos. The huge menu is filled with food from the owner’s land, including homemade feta, olives, bread and goat. The rest is sourced locally – honey, seafood, burgers and vegies.
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ASTYPALEA ΑΣΤΥΠΑΛΑΙΑ
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Flung so far west you’d be forgiven for thinking it was part of the Cycladic Islands, Astypalea (ah-stih-pah-lia) appeals to those after an alternative holiday experience. Outside of the bustling port of Skala and cubist hill-top town of Hora, the land is bare and rocky with nary a tree in sight. The beaches are scattered, but most are lovely; the rough terrain offers off-road thrills to adventurers; and the fresh fish and lobster thrill gastronomes. Mass foreign tourism has not yet arrived here, but in July and August Athenians descend in force.
Getting There & Away
There are regular flights from Astypalea to Athens, Leros, Kos and Rhodes. Astypalea Tours in Skala is the agent for Olympic Air.
Astypalea has ferry services to Piraeus and Rhodes with various stops along the way. They dock at the rather isolated small port of Agios Andreas, 6.5km north of Skala. A bus is scheduled to meet all arriving ferries, but don’t bank on it. The Kalymnos-based ferry F/B Nissos Kalymnos links the island with Kalymnos and islands