Greece - Korina Miller [459]
Eating
There aren’t many eating options in Astypalea. Astakomakaronadha (lobster in pasta) is the island’s traditional (though pricey) dish.
Jolly Café ( 22430 22430; breakfast €5-6) The best place to fill up on waffles and coffee for breakfast is slap-bang on the Skala waterfront under the shade of a tamarisk tree.
Maïstrali ( 22430 61691; mains €5-8) Tucked away in the little street behind the harbour and popular with yachties, this is a good place to try lobster with spaghetti. The fish-based menu is complemented with oven-baked specials like succulent lemon goat. Dine alfresco on the shaded balcony.
Restaurant Akti ( 22430 61114; mains €5-8.50) Perched high up on a cliff on the north side of Skala, the few tables overlooking the harbour are enormously popular. So, too, is the food, which includes fisherman’s pasta or poungia (cheese turnovers).
To Akrogiali ( 22430 61863; mains €5.50-9.50) Dine on the beach or on a pleasant patio. The yummy smells from the kitchen hint at the good-quality mezedhes at this cosy taverna. Try the tigania (pork cubes) or soft local cheeses, such as hlori or ladotyri.
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LIVADI ΛEΙΒΑΔΙ
The little resort of Livadi lies in the heart of a fertile valley, 2km from Hora. Its wide pebble beach is one of the best on the island and can get fairly crowded in summer. On the seafront, Hotel Manganas ( 22430 61468, 697657853; astyroom@otenet.gr; studios €50-60; ) offers comfortable, simple rooms with kitchenette, shaded balconies and mini-washing machines to extract all of that sand. For a plusher option, head to Fildisi Hotel ( 22430 62060; www.fildisi.net; studios from €130; ) with posh, spacious rooms that combine modern and traditional touches. Feel at home with your own kitchenette and home theatre.
The handful of places to eat at Livadi are strung out along the tree-shaded waterfront. Trapezakia Exo ( 22430 61083; mains €4-7) is at the western end and serves sandwiches and daily fish specials, while Astropelos ( 22430 61473; mains €6-9) has a small but imaginative range of seafood dishes.
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WEST OF SKALA
Heading west of Skala you hit the big Astypalea outback – gnarled, bare and rolling hills with scarcely a sealed road to speak of. It’s just about driveable; you’ll need a solid 4WD. The road eventually leads to the Kastro ruins and Moni Agiou Ioanni, situated next to each other above the coast. From here, the strictly fit may venture downwards on foot to Agios Ioannis beach. An equally rough road leads to Panormos Beach which you’ll likely have to yourself.
On the south coast, an extremely rough track winds downwards to Kaminakia beach, where there is a good seasonal restaurant, Sti Linda ( 6932610050; mains €4-7; Jul-Sep), serving hearty fish soups, oven-baked goat and home-made bread. If your nerves aren’t shattered, detour to the pretty, tree-shaded Agios Konstantinos beach on the south side of Livadi Bay.
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EAST OF SKALA
Marmari, 2km northeast of Skala, has three bays with pebble and sand beaches and is home to Camping Astypalea ( 22430 61900; camp sites per adult/tent €6/4; Jun-Sep). This tamarisk tree-shaded and bamboo-protected camping ground is right next to the beach and has good facilities like 24-hour hot water, a kitchen, cafe and minimarket. Steno Beach, 2km further along, is one of the better but least frequented beaches on the island. It’s sandy, shady and well protected. The island is just 2km wide here.
Analipsi (also known as Maltezana) is 7km up the road in a fertile valley on the isthmus. A former Maltese pirates’ lair, it’s a scattered, pleasantly laid-back settlement. On its outskirts are remains of the Tallaras Roman baths with mosaics. Analipsi Beach is southeast of town and is long, with sand, pebbles, shade and clean, shallow water.
For accommodation in Analipsi, head to Villa