Greece - Korina Miller [460]
Continuing east, remote Mesa Vathy hamlet is an indolent yacht harbour in a sheltered bay. The swimming isn’t good, but you can fish for your lunch or dine at the laid-back Galini Café ( 22430 61201; mains €3-5; Jun-Oct), which offers meat and fish grills and oven-baked specials.
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KALYMNOS ΚΑΛΥΜΝΟΣ
pop 16,440
Once renowned for its sponge-fishing, Kalymnos (kah-lim-nos) still sees a daily catch of sponges sorted through at the harbour’s edge. Today the island is working hard to reinvent itself as a tourist destination and with a lively main town, beautiful beaches, and perpendicular cliffs where climbers flock to test their mettle, the island has lots to offer. The island’s resorts cater mainly to individuals, and walkers will find a network of ready-to-walk trails and paths that criss-cross the landscape.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Kalymnos is linked to Athens and neighbouring islands by Olympic Air, represented by Kapellas Travel ( 22430 29265; kapellastravel@gallileo.gr; Patriarhou Maximou 12, Pothia). The airport is 3.5km northwest of Pothia and the seaplane terminal is 1.5km east. See Island Hopping Click here for more information.
BOAT
Kalymnos is linked to Rhodes, Piraeus and islands in between via car-ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans. Services are provided by local boats and Blue Star Ferries ( 22430 26000), G&A Ferries ( 22430 23700), Dodecanese Seaways ( 22430 28777; Pothia quay) and ANE Kalymnou ( 22430 29612), and tickets can be bought from Magos Travel (opposite). For more details, Island Hopping.
Getting Around
BOAT
In summer there is a daily excursion boat from Myrties to Emborios (€8), leaving at 10am and returning at 4pm. Day trips to Kefalas Cave (€20), impressive for its 103m corridor filled with stalactites and stalagmites, run from both Pothia and Myrties. There are also regular boats from Pothia to Pserimos, with its big, sandy beach and tavernas. The large sailboat Katerina ( 6938325612) does regular excursions around Kalymnos.
BUS
There are 10 departures daily from Pothia to Elies, Kandouni, Myrties and Masouri, the first leaving at 6.50am and the last returning at 9.40pm. There are also four daily return trips to Vathys at 6.30am, 7.45am, 2.10pm and 5pm. Buy tickets from the Municipality of Kalymnos ticket office by the bus stop in Pothia.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
There are plenty of vehicle-hire companies on the island, mainly concentrated in Pothia. Try Rent-a-Bike ( 6937980591) or Automarket Rental ( 22430 51780, 6927834628).
TAXI
Shared taxi services cost a little more than buses and run from the Pothia taxi stand ( 22430 50300; Plateia Kyprou) to Masouri. The taxis can also be flagged down en route. A regular taxi costs €10 to Myrties and €15 to Vathys.
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POTHIA ΠΟΘΙΑ
pop 10,500
Pothia (poth-ya), the port and capital of Kalymnos, is a fairly large town by Dodecanese standards. Built amphitheatrically around the slopes of the surrounding valley, it’s a visually arresting melange of colourful mansions and houses draped over the hills and spilling down to an equally colourful harbour. Pothia is not, however, a languid island town. It’s a bustling, lively commercial centre with plenty of shops and restaurants that are filled with locals going about their busy lives, seemingly oblivious to the tourist trade. With an excellent museum, good hotels, great seafood and lots of energy, it’ll keep you on your toes.
Orientation & Information
Pothia’s quay is located at the southern side of the port. Most activity, however, is centred