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Greece - Korina Miller [461]

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on the waterfront square, Plateia Eleftherias. The main commercial centre is on Venizelou. Stay constantly alert while walking around Pothia; traffic hurtles up and down its narrow footpath-less roads.

The Commercial, National and Ionian Banks, all with ATMs, are close to the waterfront.

Heaven @ Cafe ( 22430 50444; internet per hr €3; 9am-late) Small but handily located on the waterfront.Kapellas Travel ( 22430 29265; fax 22430 51800; Patriarhou Maximou 12) For air tickets.

Magos Travel ( 22430 28777; www.magostours.gr) Hydrofoil and catamaran tickets, including a 24-hour ticket machine outside.

Main post office A 10-minute walk northwest of Plateia Eleftherias. There is a more convenient agency south of Plateia Ethinikis Andistasis.

Neon Internet C@fe ( 22430 59120; per hr €3; 9.30am-midnight) Popular teen hangout with internet, gaming and bowling!

Police ( 22430 29301; Venizelou)

Port police ( 22430 29304; 25 Martiou)

Tourist Information ( 22430 59056; 25 Martiou)

www.kalymnos-isl.gr Informative site hosted by the Municipality of Kalymnos.

Sights

The brand new Archaeological Museum ( 22430 23113; adult/student €5/3; 8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) is stunningly impressive and packed with a vast array of artefacts dating back as far as 2500 BC and found as recently as 2001. One of the most striking pieces is a large, arresting bronze statue of a woman in a detailed chiton from the 2nd-century BC, found off the coast of Kalymnos. Behind the main building is the mansion of Nickolas Vouvalis, a wealthy 19th-century sponge trader who was the island benefactor. Inside, rooms appear as they did when he lived here.

In the centre of the waterfront is the Nautical & Folklore Museum ( 22430 51361; admission €2; 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm Sat & Sun, May-Sep), with displays on traditional regional dress and the history of sponge diving. For an even bigger eyeful of sponge, visit the exporting factory of NS Papachatzis ( 22430 28501), overflowing with sponges of every conceivable shape and size. You can also see sponges hauled in every afternoon in the main square.

Sleeping

Greek House ( 22430 23752, 6972747494; s/d/studios/apt €25/35/40/55) Inland from the port, this pleasant budget option has four cosy wood-panelled rooms with kitchen facilities. More expensive and better-equipped studios are also available, as is a self-contained, large apartment in town.

Arhodeko Hotel ( 22430 24051; fax 22430 24149; s/d €30/40; year-round; ) Conveniently located on the harbour, this hotel has a long history. Built in the 19th-century and a bakery from 1909 until the 1980s, it has a well-preserved exterior and interior stone archways. Room 21 has the original wood-burning oven. Rooms are basic with a fridge and views over the harbour.

Hotel Panorama ( 22430 23138; smiksis2003@yahoo.gr; s/d incl breakfast €30/45; year-round; ) Set on a hill on the south side of town, this simply but homey hotel has amazing views from the rooms’ small balconies and the communal veranda. The friendly owner has lots of local info.

Evanik Hotel ( 22430 22057; d incl breakfast €55; ) Newly renovated and plush for the price, rooms here aren’t full of character but are clean and very comfortable with a small balcony. Service is attentive and there’s a stylish bar. Ask for a quieter room at the back. It’s located a few blocks inland.

Villa Melina ( 22430 22682; antoniosantonoglu@yahoo.de; d incl breakfast €55; ) With a lobby that speaks of faded glamour, this pink mansion on the hill is a unique place to stay. The doubles in the main house are individually decorated, with the quirky layout that older houses afford. The veranda overlooks the harbour and a deep pool is set in a lush garden. Surrounding the garden are plainer studios with kitchenettes.

Eating

Gregory’s ( 22430 51888; snacks €2-4) It’s true, it’s part of a chain, but Gregory’s deli and its cohabitant, Coffee Right, are a great stop for a quick bite. Near busy Plateia Kyprou, it’s bright, popular and offers good value sandwiches, salads, smoothies, coffees, croissants and spanakopita.

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