Greece - Korina Miller [462]
Mania’s ( 22430 29014; mains €5-10) One of the more atmospheric seafood restaurants along the waterfront, this colourful, comfortable place serves fresh fish, ouzo octopus, grilled calamari and saganaki (fried cheese). Traditional instruments hang on the walls and are played some evenings.
Pizza Imia ( 22430 24809; pizza €7-12) Ignore the tacky pictures of burgers and tourist food outside – come to Pizza Imia for the pizza! Loaded and thin-crusted, the pizzas are cooked in a wood oven and are delicious. The house red is rather port-esque but the service is friendly.
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OUTDOOR ADVENTURE
In recent years Kalymnos has become something of a mecca for rock climbers. Spectacular limestone walls attract legions of climbers looking for seriously challenging extreme sport. There are over 20 documented climbs awaiting the adventurous, pulling in visitors from March onwards. The best place for the low-down is the Climber’s Nest ( 6938173383; www.climbers-nest.com; Armeos). You’ll find equipment, maps, guidebooks, guides and a notice board.
The annual Diving Festival held in mid-August offers participants the chance to compete in underwater target shooting, cliff diving, scuba-diving through wrecks and even hunting for lost treasure. See the Municipality’s website (www.kalymnos-isl.gr) for further details.
Hiking has become enthusiastically organised on Kalymnos. There are 10 established hiking routes scattered all over the island and detailed on the excellent 1:25,000 Kalymnos Hiking Map published by Anavasi ( 21032 18104; www.mountains.gr; Stoa Arsakiou 6a, Athens). A popular hike is the Vathys-Pothia B1 4.25km ‘Italian Road’, a stone pathway built by the Italians at the beginning of the 20th century. A more arduous hike is the 9km circuit Patella Castle loop (C3 and C4), along the mountain ridge backing Emborios.
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If you’re self-catering, head for Vidhalis Market ( 22430 59230), a well-stocked supermarket on the waterfront, and to Anash’s Bakery ( 22430 29426) at the back of town for baked goods like olive bread and local treats.
Drinking
Pothia’s harbour is hopping in the evening. The bars that line the waterfront, particularly around Plateia Eleftherias, are stylish hangouts with tables taking over the square. To the west you’ll find more old-boy haunts where you can mingle with the locals over fishing stories.
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AROUND POTHIA
South of Pothia, the road to Moni Agiou Savra takes you past Kalymnian House Museum ( 33420 51635; admission €2; 9am-2pm & 4-8pm May-Sep), a small traditional home where you’ll learn about local customs through guided tours in English.
Running northwards from the port is a busy valley with a series of settlements. The ruined Castle of the Knights of St John (Kastro Hrysoherias) looms to the left of the Pothia–Horio road with a small church inside its battlements.
On the east side of the valley, Pera Kastro was a pirate-proof village inhabited until the 18th century. Within the crumbling walls are the ruins of stone houses and six tiny, 15th-century churches. Check out the few remaining frescoes in the Church of Transfiguration. Steps lead up to Pera Kastro from the end of the main road in Horio; it’s an unshaded climb with incredible views.
A tree-lined road continues from Horio to Panormos, a pretty village 5km from Pothia. Its original name of Elies (olive trees) was replaced following the destruction of the trees during WWII. A postwar mayor planted countless trees and flowers to create beautiful ‘panoramas’ from which its present-day name is derived. The beaches of Kandouni and Linaria are a stone’s throw from one another and within walking distance of Panormos. Kandouni is a particularly pretty cove surrounded by mountains, with cafes, bars and hotels overlooking the water and a small sandy beach. You can also rock climb from here and there is an annual cliff-diving competition (see above).
For dining and sleeping, Linaria is slightly quieter. Giorgio’s Family Restaurant ( 22430 47809; mains €6-12), at the northern end of Linaria