Greece - Korina Miller [463]
Up the road, Platys Gialos is a bit more of a trek from Panormos. The beach here is less developed and pebbly.
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MYRTIES, MASOURI & ARMEOS ΜΥΡΤΙΕΣ, ΜΑΣΟΥΡI & ΑΡΜΕΟΣ
From Panormos the road continues to the west coast, with stunning views of Telendos Islet perched like a giant castle in the sea. Myrties (myr-tyez), Masouri (mah-soo-ri) and Armeos (ar-me-os) are busy resort centres and essentially one long street, packed head to tail with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and mini-markets. With lots of trees and a pretty outlook, they’re much more relaxed and attractive than the average Greek resort strip. The beach here is divided into two sections by an extinct volcano plug – Myrties beach with Melitsahas harbour, and the marginally better Masouri and Armeos beaches to the north. The beaches have dark sand but aren’t so great.
Spread throughout all three centres there are currency-exchange bureaus, a Dodecanet ATM and car- and motorcycle-hire outlets like the reliable Avis Rental ( 22430 47145; Myrties). To get on-line, visit Babis Bar ( 22430 47864; per hr €2).
Of the three towns, Myrties is the quietest place to stay. The comfy, spacious studios of Villa Myrtia ( 22430 47046, 6937942404; www.villamyrtia.gr; d/tr €35/60; ) have waves lapping at their large shaded verandas and are set amidst a gorgeous flowering garden. Next door, Acroyali ( 22430 47521; www.acroyali-Kalymnos.com; d/tr €50/55; ) has large traditional, village-style studios with colourful touches and wide private balconies.
Take the first turning to the left to find the seafront To Psirri ( 6932808049; mains €4-12), a long-favoured family restaurant that serves sausages, grilled burgers, fisherman spaghetti and specialities like fresh sea urchins.
From Myrties there are regular small boats to Telendos Islet (€2).
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TELENDOS ISLET ΝΗΣΟΣ ΤΕΛΕΝΔΟΣ
The tranquil, traffic-free islet of Telendos is a bit of a creative outpost and an excellent escape from the busy resort strip opposite. Once part of Kalymnos, it was separated by an earthquake in AD 554.
The islet’s only settlement surrounds the colourful quay. Head right for the ruins of the early Christian basilica of Agios Vasilios. From here you can also follow a footpath to the basilica of Palaiopanayia. Further along the coast, there are several small pebble-and-sand beaches including Paradise Beach (sometimes popular with nudists). Heading left from the quay and turning right just before Zorba’s will bring you to the larger, fine-pebbled Hohlakas Beach. It’s windswept and wild.
Telendos is a popular climbing destination; pop into Cafe Naytikos for oodles of info. The small Katerina ( 6944919073) taxis climbers from Myties to sites on Telendos (€20), departing at 7am and returning at 2pm.
Hotels, rooms and restaurants are spread alongside the quay and on the eastern side of the island. Head right from the quay for the homey On the Rocks Rooms ( 22430 48260; www.otr.telendos.com; d €45; ) that sleep up to four and have a balcony, fridge, mossie nets and fan. You can also hire kayaks and dine at the popular cafe which has traditional fare and a gigantic cocktail menu.
A little further along the coast is Hotel Porto Potha ( 22430 47321; portopotha@klm.forthnet.gr; d incl breakfast €45, apt €45; ), with comfortable rooms, gorgeous views and a very friendly owner.
To fill your belly, head for Zorba’s ( 22430 48660; mains €3-8). Done up like a quirky sea shanty, you’ll enjoy the decor as much as the local seafood soup, fresh salads and tasty feta-stuffed squid. There are also simple rooms for rent upstairs (double €30).
Cafe Naytikos ( year-round) offers coffee (or something