Greece - Korina Miller [464]
For self-caterers, there’s a small mini-market opposite the quay but you’d be wise to bring any essentials with you.
Caïques for Telendos depart regularly from the Myrties quay between 8am and 1am (one way €2).
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EMBORIOS ΕΜΠΟΡΕΙΟΣ
The scenic west-coast road winds a further 11.5km from Masouri to tiny Emborios, where there’s a shaded sand-and-pebble beach. The beachside Artistico Café ( 22430 40115; mains €4-8) offers dinner and regular live music.
Harry’s Paradise ( 22430 40062; www.harrys-paradise.gr; mains €5-9; ) is found at the end of what feels like a secret garden. Incredibly lush and secluded, it’s a lovely place to dine. The creative menu changes regularly; past delights have included grilled, stuffed mushrooms, filo with smoked cheese, and pork in wine and garlic. The olive oil, eggs, butter, marmalade and edible flowers are all from Emborios. The rooms here (double €45) are extremely cosy and each is individually decorated with artistic flair. All have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the garden and (from the 1st floor) the sea beyond. Book ahead!
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VATHYS & RINA ΒΑΘΥΣ & ΡΙΝΑ
Vathys, set in a long fertile valley on the east coast of Kalymnos, is one of the most beautiful and peaceful parts of the island. Vathys, meaning ‘deep’, refers to the slender fjord that cuts through high cliffs. Narrow roads wind between citrus orchards, bordered by high stone walls called koumoula.
Rina is Vathys’ harbour and is a friendly little town, although there’s not much to see or do. There’s no beach here but if you’re careful of fishing boats, you can swim off the jetty at the south side of the harbour. Water taxis ( 22430 31316, 6947082912) take tourists to quiet coves, such as nearby Almyres and Drasonda bays. There are a number of churches you can hike to from Pina, including Hosti with 11th-century frescoes, found on the western slope of the harbour. An annual cliff-diving competition also takes place at Vathys as part of the International Diving Festival (Click here).
The small, colourful harbour is lined with restaurants. Stop for lunch at Harbor Taverna ( 22430 31206; mains €4-9) where they’ve been dishing up scrumptious meals since 1916. Try the calamari with garlic, butter and wine, the fried chicken or the swordfish souvlaki.
Vathys is 13km northeast of Pothia. From here, a new road winds through the mountains from Emborios, making it a speedier way of reaching the north than via the west coast.
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LEROS ΛΕΡΟΣ
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Laid-back Leros (leh-ros) feels both remote and happening. With a beautiful port town, cool cafes, some great dining and lovely vistas, it’s a popular spot with domestic travellers but doesn’t see many foreign guests. The island is crowned with a stunning medieval castle, one of a number of worthwhile sights, and its small, sandy beaches offer good swimming. If you’re after relaxation in comfort, Leros is a very good choice.
Getting There & Away
There are regular flights to Athens, Rhodes, Kos and Astypalea. Olympic Air ( 22470 22844) is in Platanos, before the turn-off for Pandeli.
Leros is on the main north-south route for ferries between Rhodes and Piraeus, with daily departures from Lakki. Buy tickets at Blue Star Ferries ( 222470 26000; Lakki) or Leros Travel ( in Lakki 22470 24000, in Agia Marina 22470 22154). In summer, hydrofoils and catamarans depart daily from Agia Marina on their trip through the Dodecanese, with tickets available on the quay. The Anna Express departs from Agia Marina for Kalymnos, Lipsi, Arki, Marathi and Agathonisi. A caïque also services Myrties on Kalymnos.
See Island Hopping Click here for more transport details.
Getting Around
The airport ( 22470 22777) is near Partheni in the north. There is no airport bus and the local bus does not accommodate arriving or departing flights. A taxi from the airport to Alinda will cost