Greece - Korina Miller [465]
The hub for Leros’ buses is Platanos. There are three buses daily to Partheni via Alinda and four buses to Xirokambos via Lakki (€1 flat fare).
Car-, motorcycle- and bicycle-hire outlets are mainly on the Alinda tourist strip. Motoland ( 22470 24584) offers bikes and scooters. For a taxi, ring 22470 23340, 22470 23070 or 22470 22550.
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PLATANOS & AGIA MARINA ΠΛΑΤΑΝΟΣ & ΑΓΙΑ ΜΑΡΙΝΑ
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Platanos (plah-ta-nos), the capital of Leros, is a bustling village spilling over a narrow hill to the picturesque, colourful port of Agia Marina (ay-i-a ma-ri-na) to the north. With waterside cafes and good restaurants, the busy port has a strong social vibe and is a great place to unwind, surrounded by relaxed locals and bobbing fishing boats. While there’s nowhere to stay right in Agia Marina, Kritonia, Alinda and Paneli offer good accommodation nearby.
Orientation & Information
The focal point of Platanos is the central square, Plateia N Roussou. From this square, Harami leads down to Agia Marina. The Platanos bus station and taxi rank are both about 50m in the other direction, along the Platanos–Lakki road. In Agia Marina, taxis wait at the quay.
The National Bank of Greece is on Platanos’ central square. There are two ATMs at Agia Marina, including a handy one at the port itself.
Enallaktiko Café ( 22470 25746; internet per hr €2; 10am-midnight) Opposite the quay, a very cool place to get on-line with a cocktail in hand.
Laskarina Tours ( 22470 24550; fax 22470 24551) In Platanos; ferry tickets and island cruises.
Police ( 22470 22222) In Agia Marina.
Post Office ( 22470 22929) West of the quay in Agia Marina.
Tourist Information Kiosk ( 22470 222244) On the quay in Agia Marina.
www.leros.org.uk Info on local history and facilities.
XTreme Net ( 22470 24041; internet per hr €3) Lots of computers in an office-like setting.
Sights
Perched high on the hill and overlooking the harbour, Pandeli Castle ( 22470 23211; admission castle €2, castle & museum €3; 8am-12.30pm & 4-8pm) is worth visiting for its breathtaking 360-degree views from the ramparts. The castle walls are largely intact and the ornate church inside has impressive, colourful frescoes and icons. Running south from the castle is a picturesque string of recently renovated windmills. To reach the castle, you can drive from Platanos or walk east of the main square and follow the arrows to the lengthy, scenic staircase.
The Archaeological Museum ( 22470 24775; admission free; 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep) is in a restored 19th-century building and has artefacts collected on and around Leros. You’ll pass it on the edge of Agia Marina, en route up the hill to Platanos.
Eating
To Iponradiko (Agia Marina; mains €7-12; year-round) Across from the harbour, on the corner of Harami, this popular restaurant has a touch of elegance with a high ceiling, white furnishings and fancy chandeliers. Fill up on smoked mackerel, grilled salmon or shellfish – it’s all fresh.
Taverna Mylos ( 22470 24894; Agia Marina; mains €6-15; year-round) With a home-grown, artsy feel to it, this restaurant is built right over the sea with the watermill just beyond. The creative take on local dishes makes for some tempting dining. Try pasta with smoked salmon, cream and broccoli, calamari with pesto, or chicken with mushroom sauce.
To Paradosiakon ( 22470 25500; sweets €0.50-3) Housed in the big yellow building on the harbour, this family bakery sells outrageously good desserts, using local ingredients like honey and walnuts. Try the almond bites.
For self-caterers, there is a small supermarket in Agia Marina as well as a fresh fish market near the harbour. Head up to Platanos for fresh fruit and veg sold in the main square.
Drinking
The cafes along the quay are very comfortable places to await the ferry or just to sit and relax next to the water. Enallaktiko Cafe (left) is a hip place for a drink and a game of pool, while Meltemi Bar (Agios Marina; 6pm-late) is a tiny, popular bar with a nautical theme. You may even feel it sway after a few drinks.