Greece - Korina Miller [466]
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PANDELI ΠΑΝΤΕΛΙ
Head south from Platanos and you’ll quickly reach Pandeli, a little fishing village with a sand and shingle beach. The main draw is for a pillow under your head and a full belly.
On the east side of the bay, the blue-and-white Rooms to Rent Kavos ( 22470 25020, 6972154102; d €35) has large unfussy rooms with balconies, fan and fridge. Grab a front room for a harbour view.
Pension Happiness ( 22470 23498; www.studios-happiness-leros.com; d/studio/apt €45/55/70; ) has two brand-new apartments that sleep three. More like large studios, they are spacious and very comfortable with full kitchens and verandas overlooking the sea and castle. Rooms and studios here are older but well-maintained.
Taverna Psaropoula ( 22470 25200; mains €5-8) is one of many restaurants right on the beach. Its popular menu includes fresh crayfish, big bowls of shellfish and prawn souvlaki.
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VROMOLITHOS ΒΡΩΜΟΛΙΘΟΣ
Continue around the headland and you’ll stumble upon Vromolithos, with a narrow shingly beach and some shade.
Up on the hill is the always popular Pension Rodon ( 22470 22075; d €30; year-round), a reliable and welcoming choice with comfortable rooms and big sea views. Next door, Bald Dimitris ( 22470 25626; mezedhes €3-7) offers innovative dishes under a canopy of trees. The hallmark chicken in retsina or pork in wine sauce both satisfy solidly.
Cafe Del Mar ( 22470 24766; www.leroscafedelmar.com; snacks €3-8) sits in a hidden corner of the bay, at the eastern end of the beach. The stylish, glassed-in dining room affords phenomenal views. This ranks as Leros’ coolest place to chill, with big comfy deck chairs and an amazing bar. In the day, grab a smoked trout sandwich or pancakes and stay till evening when the DJs spin.
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LAKKI ΛΑΚΚΙ
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Arriving at Lakki (lah-kee) by boat is akin to stepping into a long-abandoned Federico Fellini film set. Grandiose buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards attest to its creation during the Italian occupation. Few linger in Lakki, though chances are you’ll end up passing through. The port has internet access at the quayside Kinezos Café ( 22470 2259; per hr €3) and there’s a number of ATMs throughout the town. The island’s largest grocery store is on the road to Platanos.
Even if you’re not a history buff, it’s worth detouring to the engrossing War Museum ( 22470 25520; admission €3; 9.30am-1.30pm), a short drive west towards Merikia. Who knew that such a decisive WWII battle took place on this wee island? While the Germans captured Leros from the Italians and British in 1943, locals hid in these bunkers which are now home to countless war-time objects.
If you have an early morning ferry from Lakki, consider staying at Hotel Miramare ( 22470 22052; georvirv@otenet.gr; d €45; ). An old-fashioned family place, the hotel has clean, comfortable rooms with some sea views. You’ll find the place one block back from the waterfront.
Plenty of restaurants line the harbour but if you’re after something fresh and affordable, grab a bite with the locals at To Polntimo ( 22470 23323; sandwiches €2-4). Choose your sandwich fillings from the well-stocked deli, have it toasted and wash it down with fruit smoothies and coffee.
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XIROKAMBOS ΞΗΡΟΚΑΜΠΟΣ
Southern Xirokambos Bay has a somewhat isolated feel to it. It’s a resort in as much as it has a handful of hotels and a restaurant alongside a few village homes. The beach is pebble and sand with some good spots for snorkelling. En route to Xirokambos a signposted path leads up to the ruined fortress of Paleokastro for pretty views.
Xirokambos is home to Leros’ only camping ground, Camping Leros ( 22470 23372, 944238490; camp sites adult/tent €6.50/4; Jun-Sep). Shaded sites are in an olive grove, 500m from the beach with a restaurant and basic facilities. Look for it on the right, 3km from Lakki. It’s also home to Panos Diving Club ( 22470 23372; divingleros@hotmail.com;), offering a series of wreck dives and training