Greece - Korina Miller [467]
Just up from the beach, Villa Alexandros ( 22470 22202, 6972914552; d €55; ) has comfortable, self-contained studios with kitchenettes, overlooking a flower garden. Right on the beach, To Aloni ( 22470 26048; mains €4-8) is a pleasant fish taverna that draws clientele from around the island.
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KRITHONI & ALINDA ΚΡΙΘΩΝΙ & ΑΛΙΝΤΑ
Within easy reach of Agia Marina, Krithoni and Alinda sit next to each other on Alinda Bay and attract the lion’s share of visitors in summer. That said, they remain small and very relaxed. Most of the action is at Alinda while, just down the road, Krithoni offers a quieter area to stay.
Leros’ best beach is at Alinda – although narrow, it’s long, shaded and sandy with clean, shallow water and, in summer, the occasional lifeguard on duty. Alinta Seasport ( 22470 24584) hires out row boats, canoes and motor boats. On the bay, the Historic & Folklore Museum (admission €3; 9am-12.30pm & 6.30-9pm Tue-Sun) is in what was once a stately home. Displays take you through the social history of Leros.
On Krithoni’s waterfront there is a poignant war cemetery. After the Italians surrendered in WWII, Leros saw fierce fighting between German and British forces; the cemetery contains the graves of 179 British, two Canadian and two South African soldiers. You’ll find various articles kept in the register box beside the gate.
Hotel Alinda ( 22470 23266; fax 22470 23383; Alinda; s/d €30/40; ) is right on the beachfront with a shaded bar out front and a pleasant taverna. It has a bit of that holiday-camp feel but has great value, comfortable rooms with lovely views.
With the reception in a neoclassical mansion next to the road, Boulafendis Bungalows ( 22470 23290; www.boulafendis.gr; Alinda; studio/apt €68/100; ) offer standard rooms around a gorgeous, palm-fringed pool and garden.
Nefeli Hotel ( 22470 24611; www.nefelihotels.com; studio €80, apt €100-130; ) has spacious, comfy rooms. Village-style architecture with kitchens and peaceful balconies is made all the more homier with elegant bohemian touches like local art and textiles. Top-floor rooms have sea views.
Set amid a lush garden of flowers, shrubs and shady trees and backed by a small vineyard, the old-style mansion To Arhontiko tou Angelou ( 22470 22749; www.hotel-angelou-leros.com; Alinda; s/d incl breakfast €90/155; ) has beautiful rooms with antique furnishings, wrought-iron bed and wooden floors.
Alinda is lined with lots of stylish cafes and restaurants. Where the bay bends east, Osteria Del Buon Mangiare (Alinda; mains €5-10) is a cheerful restaurant serving authentic Italian meals. A few doors south, Ionos ( 6977781874; mains €6-12) has a homey, old-fashioned feel with an open fire, traditional tiled floors and lots of photos on the walls. Play chess while you wait for your rabbit with fresh tomato sauce, skewered swordfish, or pork with mango sauce.
Alinda has a number of bars lining the waterfront. Head toward Krithoni for Nemesis ( 22470 22070), a lounge-style bar with sangria, cocktails and coffee and plenty of comfy sofas.
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NORTHERN LEROS
The north of the island is quiet and dotted with small fishing communities, beehives and rugged, windswept terrain. Just west of the airport, the Temple of Artemis is from the 4th century BC but is yet to be excavated. On the site are the remains of a newer church where the altar is still used to make offerings.
East of here, Blefoutis Beach is a narrow stretch of sand and pebble on an enclosed bay. The setting is pretty and it’s very quiet, with a seasonal taverna as the only facility.
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PATMOS ΠΑΤΜΟΣ
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Shrouded in spiritual mystery, Patmos has an atmosphere unlike any of the other Dodecanese. It’s as if the island itself knows it’s special. Even the light here is unusual, bathing the landscape in warm hues, and the islanders are a mix of proud locals and long-term expats drawn by the lure of harmony. It was here that St John the Divine ensconced himself in a cave and wrote the Apocalypse