Greece - Korina Miller [470]
Studios Siroco ( 22470 33262; fax 22470 34090; d €80; ) Next to the beach on Hohlakas Bay, these big, new studios are very comfortable with separate kitchens, brick and tiled floors and spacious verandas. You’ll fall asleep to the pounding surf.
Kalderimi Apartments ( 22470 33008; www.kalderimi.com; apt incl breakfast from €110; ) At the foot of the path up to the monastery and secluded by trees, these gorgeous apartments have traditional design with wooden beams and stone walls, along with lots of swish extras. A full kitchen, shaded balcony and lots of privacy make them a perfect retreat for longer-term stays.
Blue Bay Hotel ( 22470 31165; www.bluebay.50g.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast €78/116/144; ) Just south of town, this hotel has an airy veranda and breakfast room. Rooms don’t have much character but are spacious, well maintained and have lovely sea views from the balconies.
Eating
Meltemi ( 22470 31839; full breakfast €5; 9am-late; ) Start your morning off right, filling up on a home-cooked breakfasts at tables on the sand. Later in the day, come here for milkshakes, quiche and coffee while the waves lap at your toes.
Tzivaeri ( 22470 31170; mains €4-7; dinner) All old-fashioned elegance with china, a record player and black-and-white photos, this beachside restaurant serves traditional dishes. The service is fast and courteous and the upstairs looks out over the harbour.
Kiliomothi ( 22470 34808; mains €5-9; dinner) A block up the road to Hora, this quaint restaurant has a less touristy feeling than many of its neighbours. Try aubergine or octopus pancakes or fresh fish with garlic sauce.
Ostria ( 22470 30501; mains €7-12) Easily recognisable by the boat on its roof, this place doesn’t look that special but packs in seafood connoisseurs all day long. Stuffed kalamari, shrimp with tomato and feta, and swordfish souvlaki are just a few of the tempting dishes.
Vegghera ( 22470 32988; mains €17-28) High-society diners head for this swish restaurant opposite the yacht marina. The cuisine is a melange of French and Greek with dishes like mushroom risotto, spaghetti with smoked turkey or shrimp on halva. And don’t miss the chocolate soufflé.
Drinking
George’s Juice Place (drinks €4-5; 8am-8pm) George whips up smoothies and fresh juice from pears, pomegranates, mangoes, carrots – you name it. Have it with milk, coconut milk or yoghurt and add a dash of booze for an extra kick. Follow the road off the main square to the back of town.
Koukoumavia ( 22470 32325) Sip your cocktail on the mosaic bar of this very funky drinking hole. A great selection of music, friendly staff and unique artistic creations will keep you lingering. You’ll find it a block north of the turn-off for Hora.
Arion ( 22470 31595) Right on the harbour, this popular spot has high-beamed ceilings, polished wood tables and looks more Cuban than Greek. Join a good mix of locals and tourists at any time of day, swinging your cocktail, beer or coffee to an eclectic mix of music.
Anemos ( 22470 33008; 9pm-late Thu-Sun) Just outside Skala on the hill heading up to Kambos, this trendy beer house and music bar in an old stone house draws crowds on the weekends.
Shopping
There’s a creative streak running through Patmos, which leads to some interesting shopping. Koukoumavla ( 22470 32325; www.patmos-island.com/koukoumavia) has funky handmade clothing and accessories; on the harbour, Selene ( 22470 31742) has work by 40 artists from around Greece. Browse through Byzantine effigies, wooden carvings, games, pottery and jewellery. Behind the main square, Jewel Kalogero ( 22470 32453) sells locally made silver jewellery with unique designs.
On a more practical note, Blue Fin ( 22470 85500; New Marina) can equip you with everything you need for diving and fishing, including oxygen refilling and live bait.
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HORA ΧΩΡΑ
High on the hill, huddled around the Monastery of St John, are the immaculate whitewashed houses of Hora, a legacy of the island’s great wealth in the 17th and 18th centuries. A stroll through the mazelike streets