Greece - Korina Miller [471]
The immense Monastery of St John the Theologian ( 22470 31398; admission free; 8am-1.30pm daily, plus 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sun) crowns the island of Patmos. Attending a service here, with plumes of incense, religious chants and devoted worshippers, is like no other experience you’ll have in Greece. Outside of services, you’ll get a chance to see the intricate decor. To reach it, many people walk up the Byzantine path which starts from a signposted spot along the Skala–Hora road.
Some 200m along this path, a dirt trail to the left leads through pine trees to the Monastery of the Apocalypse ( 22470 31234; admission free, treasury €6; 8am-1.30pm daily, plus 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sun), built around the cave where St John received his divine revelation. Inside you can see the rock that the saint used as a pillow, and the triple fissure in the roof from where the voice of God issued. The finest frescoes of this monastery are those in the outer narthex. It’s also worth taking a peak at the icons and ecclesiastical ornaments found in the treasury.
A five-minute walk west of St John’s Monastery, the Holy Monastery of Zoodohos Pigi (admission free; 8am-noon & 5-7pm Sun-Fri) is a women’s convent with incredibly impressive frescoes. On Good Friday, a beautiful candle-lit ceremony takes place here.
Just east of St John’s Monastery, Andreas Kalatzis ( 22470 31129) is a Byzantine icon artist who lives and works in a 1740s traditional home. Inside, you’ll find an interesting mix of pottery, jewellery and paintings by local artists.
Archontariki ( 22470 29368; www.archontariki-patmos.gr; ste €200-400) will do the trick if you’re in need of a little luxury. Inside a 400-year-old building, four gorgeous suites are equipped with every convenience, traditional furnishings and plush touches. Relaxing under the fruit trees in the cool and quiet garden, you’ll wonder why the hotel isn’t named Paradise.
Loza ( 22470 32405; starters €3-8, mains €10-19) is hard to miss as you enter Hora. With stunning views over Skala, it serves up reasonably priced salads and starters, along with some interesting mains like sweet and sour feta in filo and ouzo prawns with basmati rice. Up the stairs and left from here is the tiny Pantheon ( 22470 31226; mains €5-12) with views of the harbour. Dolmadhes, aubergine with garlic and fish are all well prepared and great value.
Dine in the square or in the secluded garden at Vangelis Taverna ( 22470 31967; mains €6-10), with its traditional food and family ambience. For a drink, head to Stoa Cafe ( 22470 32226; ), a hip oasis across the square.
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NORTH OF SKALA
The narrow, tree-shaded Meloï Beach is just 2km northeast of Skala. If you’ve brought your tent, head for Stefanos Camping ( 22470 31821; camp sites per person/tent €7/2; May-Oct). It’s clean and well equipped with bamboo-enclosed and tree-shaded sites, a minimarket, cafe-bar and motorcycle-hire facilities. The beach itself has a taverna as well.
Just north of Skala, on the road to Kambos, is the plush Porto Scoutari Hotel ( 22470 33123; www.portoscoutari.com; d incl breakfast €80-180; ). While the reception is overflowing with impressive but stuffy antiques, the rooms are tastefully decorated and the pool is divine. You pay more for a room with gob-smacking views.
Further up the road is the inland village of Kambos, from where the road descends to the relatively wide and sandy Kambos Beach, perhaps the most popular and easily accessible beach on the island. Situated on a fairly enclosed bay, it’s great for swimming and you can hire kayaks and sun beds.
George’s Place ( 22470 31881; snacks €3-7) is a fantastic beachside spot for lunch with a big selection of gourmet salads and snacks. The mint iced tea is very satisfying. Kick back and play backgammon, listen to the tunes and watch the waves roll in.
The main road soon forks left to Lambi, 9km from Skala, where you wind down to an impressive beach of multicoloured pebbles. High above the beach on the approach road, the warm and welcoming Leonidas (