Greece - Korina Miller [472]
Under the protected lee of the north arm of the island are several more beaches, including Vagia Beach. Overlooking the beach is Cafe Vagia ( 22470 31658; mains €3-5; 9am-7pm) with its amazing vegie pies, hearty omelettes and local desserts, all served in a lush garden. It’s especially popular with families.
Further west is the shaded Livadi tou Geranou Beach, with a small church-crowned island opposite. The road here is narrow and slightly treacherous but stunning. For lunch, stop at the cute Livadi Geranou Taverna ( 22470 32046; mains €3-5) overlooking the sea from a shaded garden.
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SOUTH OF SKALA
Small, tree-filled valleys and picturesque beaches fill the south of Patmos. Closest to Skala is the tiny settlement of Sapsila, ideal for those wanting peace and quiet. Mathios Studios ( /fax 22470 32583; www.mathiosapartments.gr; d €40-65; ) has studios set in a beautiful garden. Relaxed and very comfortable, they have a homey quality and are just 200m from the beach. Dine at Benetos ( 22470 33089; Sapsila; mains €7-14; dinner Tue-Sun), just up the road. It’s a working boutique farmhouse and specialises in Mediterranean fusion dishes with an occasional Japanese kick. Try zucchini blossoms stuffed with mushrooms and cheese, or the herb-crusted, pan-seared tuna. Finish up with a fresh, vodka-laced sgroppino, a lemon sorbet drink.
Grikos, 1km further along over the hill, is a relaxed low-key resort with a long, sandy beach and warm shallow water. The bay is lined with tavernas and popular with yachties; be aware that the southern section of the beach doubles as a road. In Grikos is the chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos, built upon ancient public baths where many believe St John baptised islanders. At the southern end of the bay is Ktima Petra ( 22470 33207; mains €4-7), with organic, homegrown produce. The stuffed and wood-oven-baked goat melts in your mouth and the organic cheese and vege-tables are scrumptious.
Just south, Petra Beach is very peaceful with sand, pebbles and lots of shade. A spit leads out to the startling Kalikatsos Rock. A rough coastal track leads from here to Diakofti, the last settlement in the south. (You can also get here by a longer sealed road from Hora.) From here you can follow a half-hour walking track to the long, sandy, tree-shaded Psili Ammos Beach where there’s a seasonal taverna. You can also get here by excursion boat Click here.
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LIPSI ΛΕΙΨΟΙ
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Blink on the deck of your ferry and you might miss Lipsi (lip-see). Long ago discovered by Italians and latterly by French travellers, who treat it as a well-kept secret, this tiny island’s drawcard is its relative anonymity, its fine beaches, its lack of demands on visitors – no clubs, pubs or sights to speak of – and a sense that you have the island to yourself, apart from two or three days in August when pilgrims and revellers descend upon Lipsi for its main religious festival. Everything moves more slowly here.
Getting There & Away
Sea connections with Lipsi are tenuous, although it is linked with Piraeus through long-haul ferries and neighbouring islands via the catamaran, a Kalymnos-based ferry, the local Anna Express ( 22479 41215) and the larger Patmos Star. See Island Hopping Click here for more details.
Getting Around
Stretching only 8km end to end, Lipsi is small – really small – and you can reach most places on foot. In summer, a minibus departs Lipsi Village hourly to the beaches of Platys Gialos, Katsadia and Hohlakoura (each €1) between 10.30am and 6pm. Two taxis ( 6942409677, 6942409679) operate on the island; you’ll find them roaming around Lipsi