Greece - Korina Miller [480]
Indeed, having outlived five wars, Ioannis knows something about conflict management. Personal strife, however, endangers one’s lifespan most, he believes. The village elder saves this, perhaps his most important lesson, for the end. ‘It’s very bad for one’s health to be jealous of other people’s happiness. When others have success, we should also feel joy… afta [That’s all].’
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Kerame Studios ( 22750 31434; www.atheras-kerame.gr; studio/apt from €70; ) These diverse studios, apartments and rooms 1km before Evdilos have beach access nearby. Prices are as variable as the quarters, which include simple but well-maintained studios and apartments for four people, with separate kitchen. Rooms have spacious decks with views; the restaurant is built into a windmill.
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RELIGIOUS REVELRY ON THE ISLAND OF WINE
Pagan god Dionysos may no longer reign over Ikaria’s vineyards, but his legacy lives on in Christianised form in the summertime panigyria (festivals; all-night celebrations held on saints’ days across the island). There’s no better way to dive headfirst into Greek island culture than drinking, dancing and feasting while honouring a village’s patron saint. Bring your wallet, however: panigyria are important fundraisers for the local community. Use this fact to explain away any overindulgences as well-intended philanthropy.
Western Ikaria panigyria occur on the following dates:
Kambos 5 May
Agios Isidoros 14 May
Armenistis 40 days after Orthodox Easter
Pezi 14 May
Agios Kirykos & Ikarian Independence Day 17 July
Hristos Rahes & Dafne 6 August
Langada 15 August
Evdilos 14–17 August
Agios Sofia 17 September
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Hotel Evdoxia ( 22750 31502; www.evdoxia.gr; d €70; ) Although it’s a bit of a climb, this B-class hotel has attractive modern rooms and many facilities, like a minimarket, laundry service, currency exchange and traditional restaurant. Advance, multiday reservations get you free pick-up from the ferry.
Eating
Tsakonitis ( 22750 31684; Plateia Evdilou; mezedhes €4-7) This ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and appetisers) on the waterfront is a local favourite known for its homemade Greek yoghurt.
To Steki ( 22750 31723; Plateia Evdilou; mains €5-9) This harbour-side dining ‘hang-out’ (as its name implies in Greek) is a dependable year-round option for taverna fare, like cheese pies and soufiko (an Ikarian speciality, like a Greek ratatouille).
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WEST OF EVDILOS
Kambos Κμπος
pop 94
Little Kambos, 3km west of Evdilos, was once mighty Oinoe (derived from the Greek word for wine), Ikaria’s capital. Traces of this ancient glory don’t remain, though the village does boast a ruined Byzantine palace, Ikaria’s oldest church and a small museum. Kambos’ other main attractions are its sand-and-pebble beach and scenic hill walks.
INFORMATION
Kambos is fairly self-explanatory but for insider info, track down long-time local tourism provider Vasilis Kambouris. If he’s not at his village shop (on the right when arriving from Evdilos, and also site of Kambos’ post box and telephone), Vasilis can be found catering to guests at his Rooms Dionysos (below). Vasilis can also help organise taxis, car hire and ferry tickets.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
On the right-hand side when entering Kambos from Evdilos stand the modest ruins of a Byzantine palace. Kambos’ small museum ( 22750 31300; admission free) displays Neolithic tools, geometric vases, classical sculpture fragments, figurines and ivory trinkets. If it’s closed, ask Vasilis Kambouris to open it. Adjacent stands Ikaria’s oldest surviving Byzantine church, Agia Irini Church (12th century). Built on the site of a 4th-century basilica, it contains some columns from this original. Alas, Agia Irini’s frescoes remain covered with whitewash because of no funds to pay for its removal.
SLEEPING & EATING
Rooms Dionysos ( 22750 31300; dionisos@hol.gr; www.ikaria-dionysosrooms.com; roof-terrace beds/d/tr €10/40/50; ) The many happy guests who return every year attest to the magical atmosphere