Greece - Korina Miller [481]
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MOUNTAIN WALKS & MONKS SKULLS
With its solitude and wild nature, Ikaria’s perfect for mountain walks. One that’s invigorating, but not too hard on the bones, is the one-day circular walk along dirt roads from Kambos south through Dafni, the remains of the 10th-century Byzantine Castle of Koskinas, and picturesque Frandato and Maratho villages.
When you reach Pigi, look for the Frandato sign; continue past it for the unusual little Byzantine Chapel of Theoskepasti, tucked into overhanging granite. You must clamber upwards to get to it, and duck to get inside. Provided the row of old monks’ skulls don’t creep you out, the chapel makes for a wonderfully peaceful visit and is near Moni Theoktistis, with frescoes dating from 1686. The nearby kafeneio (coffee house) is good for a relaxed coffee or juice with Maria, the kindly owner.
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Balcony ( 22750 31604; d/tr €40/60) There are fantastic views from the six apartments at family-run Balcony, a bit of a hike to reach. Classic wrought-iron furniture distinguishes the studios, which have a kitchen and loft-sleeping area with twin mattresses. French-style doors lead to a private sitting area with coastal views.
Partheni ( 22750 31995; mains €6-8) On Kambos Beach, the Partheni serves simple but tasty Greek food, and great kalamari (fried squid). It also does nourishing mayirefta (ready-cooked meals), and makes a relaxing place to eat after a swim.
Pashalia ( 22750 31346; mains €6-10) A family-run taverna with tradition, the Pashalia offers tasty homemade mezedhes (appetisers), like wild mushrooms, fresh wild asparagus and goat’s cheese, and is frequented by the locals.
Kambos to the Southwest Coast
From Kambos, two roads head west: the main road, which hugs the northern coast until the Armenistis resort, and then becomes a secondary road continuing down the northwestern coast; and another secondary road, mostly dirt but doable with a good car, which ribbons slightly southwest through the stunning moonscapes of central Ikaria to remote Karkinagri on the southern coast. The latter is ideal for those seeking off-the-beaten-track adventures, while the former is the obvious choice for beach lovers.
The southern coast road through central Ikaria accesses Moni Theoktistis and the tiny Chapel of Theoskepasti (boxed text), just northwest of Pigi. From Pigi, continue south to Maratho, then west for the impressive Moni Mounte, also called Moni Evangelistrias. Some 500m beyond it lies a kid-friendly duck pond with giant goldfish and croaking frogs.
After this, the road forks northwest and southwest: follow the signs and either will arrive at Hristos Rahes, an eclectic hillside village and good hiking base, once known for its late-night shopping. Along with various traditional products, there’s a useful walking map, The Round of Rahes on Foot (€4), sold at most shops; proceeds go to maintaining the trails.
After Hristos Rahes, follow the road south through rustic Profitis Ilias. Head south when the road forks; after 1km take the left towards Pezi. The landscape now becomes even more rugged and extreme, with wind-whipped thick green trees clinging to bleak boulders, and rows of old agriculturalists’ stone walls snaking across the terrain. The bouncy, dusty ride opens onto stunning views of the badlands interior and, after you turn left at Kalamos, of the sea far below. The road finally terminates at tiny Karkinagri, which has a few tavernas, rooms and a nearby beach.
In summer this fishing village also has a thrice-weekly boat service