Greece - Korina Miller [482]
Alternatively, if coming to Seychelles Beach by car along the coastal road connecting Manganitis with Evdilos and Agios Kirykos, you’ll see an unmarked parking area on the right-hand side, after a tunnel; park here and clamber down the boulder-strewn path (a 20-minute walk) to the beach.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hotel Raches ( 22750 91222; Hristos Rahes; s/d €25/40) Simple but clean and inexpensive domatia have balconies with views, a communal area and friendly owners – book ahead in high season.
Kaza Papas ( 22750 91222; Karkinagri; d/apt €45/55; ) These simple but new Karkinagri domatia and apartments have great sea views. Facing the water, turn right behind the tavernas and walk 100m along the waterfront to reach them, though it’s better to reserve ahead.
O Karakas ( 22750 91214; Karkinagri; mains €6-9) On a bamboo-roofed seafront patio, this excellent family-run taverna does good fresh fish and salads. Try Ikaria’s tasty vegetable stew speciality, soufiko.
Armenistis to Nas Αρμειστς Προς Να
Armenistis, 15km west of Evdilos, is Ikaria’s humble version of a resort. It boasts two long, sandy beaches separated by a narrow headland, a fishing harbour and a web of hilly streets to explore, but nothing traditional. Cafes line the beach. Moderate nightlife livens up Armenistis in summer, but it’s far more subdued than the typical Greek island resort. Dolihi Tours ( 22750 71480), by the sea, organises walking tours and jeep safaris. Aventura ( 22750 71117), by the patisserie before the bridge, offers car hire and ticket sales.
Just 500m east of Armenistis is Livadi Beach, where currents are strong enough to warrant a lifeguard service and waves are sometimes big enough for surfing. Beyond Livadi are two other popular beaches, Mesahti and Gialiskari.
Westward 3.5km from Armenistis lies the pebbled beach of Nas, located far below the road and a few tavernas. This nudist-friendly beach has an impressive location at the mouth of a forested river, behind the ruins of an ancient Temple of Artemis.
Nas has become slightly upscale and preserving the equilibrium has prompted the Greek police to dismantle the impromptu beach hovels made by the hapless hippies the place attracts. They usually retreat into the river forest to camp, and are generally benign.
SLEEPING
Rooms Fotinos ( 22750 71235; www.island-ikaria.com/hotels/PensionFotinos.asp; Armenistis; d from €40; May-Oct; ) This family-run Armenistis pension, 150m above the curving beach, has seven rooms, all clean and modern, with a lovely, relaxing garden. The owners are friendly and helpful.
Gallini ( 22750 71293; www.galinipension.gr; Armenistis; d €60; May-Oct) These 12 domatia also hover above Armenistis. They’re small but beautifully furnished, with walls of inset stone and big windows. Studios are larger, with slanting, loft-style ceilings and kitchenettes. All enjoy great sea views.
Atsachas Rooms ( /fax 22750 71226; www.atsachas.gr; Livadia Beach; d €60) Right on Livadia Beach, the Atsachas has clean, well-furnished rooms, some with sophisticated kitchens. Most have breezy, sea-view balconies. The cafe spills down to the lovely garden, and the restaurant has also won plaudits.
Villa Dimitri ( /fax 22750 71310; www.villa-dimitri.de; Armenistis; 2-person studios & apt with private patio €50-70; Mar-Oct; ) This assortment of separate, secluded apartments set on a cliff amid colourful flowers has a Cycladic feel. It’s 800m west of Armenistis and requires advance bookings and a minimum of one week.
Panorama ( 22750 71177; www.ikaria-panorama.com; Nas; studios €80; ) This collection of five self-catering studios is located up a steep driveway before the village. Rooms fit up to four people and feature handsome combinations of wood