Greece - Korina Miller [483]
EATING
Pashalia Taverna ( 22750 71302; Armenistis; mains from €5; Jun-Nov) Meat dishes like katsikaki (kid goat) or veal in a clay pot are specialities at this, the first taverna along the Armenistis harbour road.
Taverna Nas ( 22750 71486; Nas; mains €6-10) This simple taverna on the high bluff over Nas beach has superb views of the western sea at sunset. Although a bit touristy, it serves hearty portions of Greek standbys and fresh fish.
Kelari ( 22750 71227; Gialiskari; mains €6-13) Taking the fish straight off the boat, Kelari serves the best seafood available at this laid-back beach east of Armenistis.
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THE FOURNI ISLANDS ΟΙ ΦΟΥΡΝΟΙ
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The Fourni archipelago is one of Greece’s great unknown island gems. Its low-lying vegetation clings to gracefully rounded hills that overlap, forming intricate bays that conceal sandy beaches and little ports where caïques bob on a placid sea. A sort of Outer Hebrides in the Mediterranean, this former pirates’ lair is especially beautiful at dusk, when the setting sun suffuses its multifaceted terrain into shades of pink, violet and black – the effect is especially dramatic when viewed from an elevated point.
In centuries past, Fourni’s remoteness and quietude attracted pirates seeking refuge, though today those seeking refuge – and some of the Mediterranean’s best seafood – are inevitably travellers seeking a peaceful respite from the outside world. Nevertheless, Fourni’s swashbuckling past is still evoked in the very appellation of the archipelago’s capital, Fourni Korseon; the Corsairs were French privateers with a reputation for audacity, and their name became applied generically to all pirates and scallywags then roaming the Eastern Aegean.
Nowadays, Fourni Korseon offers most of the accommodation and services, plus several beaches. Other settlements include the much smaller Hrysomilia and Kamari to the north, plus another fishing hamlet opposite, on the island of Thymena. In the main island’s very south, the monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos stands serene over several enticing beaches.
Orientation & Information
Fourni Korseon’s waterfront, where ferries dock, is lined with tavernas and some accommodation options. Perpendicular to the central waterfront, the main street runs inland to the plateia; this nameless thoroughfare hosts a National Bank of Greece with ATM, travel agencies, a post office and the village pharmacy ( 22750 51188). Adjacent to it is an internet cafe (per hr €3; 11am-midnight). There’s also a free wi-fi connection at the terrace cafe-restaurant of the Archipelagos Hotel.
Fourni Korseon also has a doctor ( 22750 51202), police ( 22750 51222) and port police ( 22750 51207).
For further information online, www.fourni.com.
Sights & Activities
Although Fourni is ideal for relaxing, the active-minded can enjoy hiking in the island’s rolling hills and swimming at its pristine beaches. The nearest to town, Psili Ammos Beach, is a five-minute walk 600m north on the coast road. It has umbrellas and a summer beach bar that also operates at night.
Further from town, a string of popular beaches line the coast road south. Kampi Beach, after 3km, is excellent. Further along, Elidaki Beach has two sandy stretches and one pebble beach. Beyond is the pebbled Petrokopeio Beach.
Near Fourni’s southernmost tip, near the Church of Agios Ioannis Prodromos, the fine, sandy Vlyhada Beach lies before the more secluded Kasidi Beach.
Fourni’s other main settlements, Hrysomilia and Kamari, are 17km and 10km from Fourni Korseon respectively (approximately a 30-minute drive on winding but freshly paved uplands roads). Both are placid fishing settlements with limited services, though they offer tranquil settings and beaches. The trip is spectacular, opening onto myriad views of Fourni’s sloping hills and hidden coves.
Finally, along with the tiny hamlet of Kampi, Fourni has another inhabited island, Thymena, which hosts an eponymous fishing hamlet and enticing Kermaidou Beach.
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