Greece - Korina Miller [484]
Most Fourni accommodation is in Fourni Korseon, though sleeping in the smaller settlements is possible, as is free beach camping.
Nectaria’s Studios ( 22750 51365; Fourni Korseon; d/tr €35/45) on the harbour’s far side, offers clean, simple rooms.
To Akrogiali ( 22750 51168, 6947403019; Kamari village; self-catering apt from €50) In Kamari village, Maria Markaki’s two self-catering apartments overlooking the sea are fully-equipped studios with double beds. In high season, book ahead.
Archipelagos Hotel ( 22750 51250; www.archipelagoshotel.gr; Fourni Korseon; s/d/tr €45/54/72; ) This elegant new hotel on the harbour’s northern edge comprises Fourni’s most sophisticated lodgings. From the patio restaurant, set under flowering stone arches, to the well-appointed rooms painted with soft tones complemented by matching marbled baths, the Archipelagos combines traditional yet imaginative Greek architecture with modern luxuries like wireless internet and all-natural Athenian designer soaps. Staff are friendly and helpful.
Eating
Fourni is famous for seafood – and especially, astakomakaronadha (lobster with pasta).
Ta Delfinakia ( 22750 51064; mains €3-7) When the other waterfront tavernas are taking their afternoon siesta, this is the only place to grab a bite.
Taverna Almyra ( 6979141653; Kamari village; fish €5-9) Up in Kamari, this relaxing fish taverna on the waterfront has subtle charm and, locals attest, the island’s best fresh fish and astakomakaronadha.
Taverna Kali Kardia ( 22750 51217; mains €6-9) Hearty Kali Karida on the plateia does excellent grilled meats, and is enlivened by animated old locals.
Psarotaverna O Miltos ( 22750 51407; Fourni Korseon; mains €7-10) Excellent lobster and fresh fish are expertly prepared at this iconic waterfront taverna.
Archipelagos Hotel Restaurant ( 22750 51250; www.archipelagoshotel.gr; Fourni Korseon; mains €7-12) Fourni’s foremost hotel offers a refined, romantic dining experience on its patio overlooking the harbour. Come after sunset for an artfully prepared dinner of fresh seafood and a glass of Greek wine.
Getting There & Away
Fourni is connected to Ikaria (Agios Kyrikos) and Samos by ferry and hydrofoil services. For more information Island Hopping. Fourni Island Tours ( 22750 51546; Fourni Korseon; www.fourniisland.ssn.gr) provides information and sells tickets.
Getting Around
Gleaming new asphalt roads connect Fourni Korseon with Hrysomilia and Kamari; however, enjoying these Fourni freeways requires befriending a local, renting a motorbike, hitching or taking the island’s lone taxi ( 22750 51223, 6977370471), commandeered by the ebullient Manolis Papaioannou.
At the time of writing, car hire was being planned; until then, hire a scooter at Escape Rent a Motorbike ( 22750 51514; gbikes@hotmail.com) on the waterfront.
Alternatively, go by boat. Two weekly caïques serve Hrysomilia, while another three go to Thymena year-round, departing at 7.30am.
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SAMOS ΣΑΜΟΣ
pop 32,820 / area 477 sq km
Lying seductively just off the Turkish coast, semitropical Samos is one of the northeastern Aegean Islands’ best-known destinations. Yet beyond the low-key resorts and the lively capital, Vathy (also called Samos), there are numerous off-the-beaten-track beaches and quiet spots in the cool, forested inland mountains, where traditional life continues more or less unchanged.
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TURKISH CONNECTIONS
Visiting the main resorts and historical sites of Turkey’s Aegean coast from Samos, Chios and Lesvos is easy. While boat itineraries, prices and even companies change often, the following explains how things generally work.
From Samos, boats leave twice daily from Vathy (Samos) for Kuşadası, a fun resort near ancient Ephesus. The Samos Star leaves at 8.30am, and a Turkish-flagged vessel departs at 5pm. Additionally, from Pythagorio, a once-weekly boat serves Kuşadası. In low season, two ferries go weekly from Vathy. Tickets cost around €45 open return and €35 one way (plus €10 port taxes). Daily excursions run from May through October;