Greece - Korina Miller [485]
From Chios, boats depart year-round from Chios Town for Çeşme, a port near bustling İzmir, though they’re most frequent in summer. From May to October, daily ferries to Çeşme leave Chios at 8.30am, returning at 6.30pm; on Sunday, however, they return at 5pm. Tickets cost €20 one way and €30 return. Get information and tickets from Hatzelenis Tours ( 22710 20002; mano2@otenet.gr; Leoforos Aigaiou 2) or Sunrise Tours ( 22710 41390; Kanari 28), which usually does a combination boat–bus day trip to İzmir via Çeşme (€40 return). Turkish visas, where required, are issued in Çeşme.
From Lesvos, boats leave Mytilini Town for Dikeli port, which serves Ayvalik. A Turkish company, Costar, leaves Mytilini Town to Dikeli every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9am (€20 return), returning at 6pm. The Thursday boat also offers onward buses to Ayvalik (€6), while the Tuesday and Saturday trips include a free bus to ancient Pergamum. Another Turkish company, Turyol, serves Fokias port near İzmir each Wednesday, leaving at 8.30am and returning at 6pm (€35).
Most Mytilini Town travel agencies sell Turkish tours; try Olive Groove Travel ( 22510 37533; www.olive-groove.gr; 11 P Kountourioti; 7.30am-10pm).
* * *
Famous for its sweet local wine, Samos is also historically significant. It was the legendary birthplace of Hera, and the sprawling ruins of her ancient sanctuary, the Ireon – where archaeological excavations continue – are impressive. Both the great mathematician Pythagoras and the hedonistic father of atomic theory, the 4th-century BC philosopher Epicurus, were born here. Samos’ scientific genius is also attested by the astonishing Evpalinos Tunnel (524 BC), a spectacular feat of ancient engineering that stretches for 1034m deep underground.
Samos is a convenient ferry hub for the Eastern Aegean, with connections extending to the northern isles, the Dodecanese in the south and the Cyclades to the west; it’s also the jumping-off point for Turkey’s coastal resort of Kuşadası, and the nearby ruins of ancient Ephesus.
Samos’ proximity to Turkey and slightly larger size make it somewhat lively in winter, though even then only a few hotels remain open, in Vathy.
Getting There & Away
For air and boat services from Samos, Island Hopping.
AIR
Samos’ airport is 4km west of Pythagorio. Olympic Air (www.olympicairlines.com) Vathy ( 22730 27237; cnr Kanari & Smyrnis); Pythagorio ( 22730 61213; Lykourgou Logotheti) sells tickets in both major towns, as do travel agencies.
BOAT
For information on trips to Turkey, boxed text.
The exceptionally helpful ITSA Travel ( 22730 23605; www.itsatravelsamos.gr; Themistokleous Sofouli), directly opposite the ferry terminal in Vathy (Samos), provides detailed information, offers free luggage storage (without a catch) and sells tickets, including to Turkey. Considering that the boss, Dimitris Sarlas, owns four ferries operating from Samos, it’s no surprise that ITSA has the most up-to-date information on schedule changes.
In Pythagorio, double-check ferry and hydrofoil schedules with the tourist office ( 22730 61389) or the port police ( 22730 61225).
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
There’s no airport shuttle bus; taxis from the airport cost €12 to Vathy (Samos) or €5 to Pythagorio, from where there are local buses to other parts of the island.
BOAT
Summer excursion boats travel four times weekly from Pythagorio to Patmos (return €45), leaving at 8am. Daily excursion boats go from Pythagorio to Samiopoula islet (including lunch, €30), while a round-island boat tour begins from Pythagorio’s harbour twice weekly (€50).
BUS
From Vathy (Samos) bus station ( 22730 27262; Ioannou Lekati) seven daily buses serve Kokkari