Greece - Korina Miller [487]
Sleeping
Pension Dreams ( 22730 24350; Areos 9; d with/without balcony €35/30; ) This small but central pension overlooks the harbour from a hill-top, and boasts an expansive rooftop studio; if that’s taken, grab a balcony room with garden views. The friendly owner speaks several languages.
Pythagoras Hotel ( 22730 28422, 69445 18690; www.pythagorashotel.com; Kallistratou 12; s/d/tr incl breakfast €20/35/45; Feb-Nov; ) The Pythagoras, just up from the port, is perfect for independent travellers and attracts a younger crowd than most Vathy hotels. The great kindness and hospitality of Stelios Mihalakis and family is only part of what makes this budget hotel special. Many rooms have breezy, sea-facing balconies (at the time of writing, air conditioning was being planned). There’s also a well-stocked shop, wi-fi connection plus computers, and a pebble beach below the shaded breakfast patio. For free pick-up from the ferry or bus station, ring Stelios, or enquire at ITSA Travel.
Hotel Aeolis ( 22730 28377; www.aeolis.gr; Themistokleous Sofouli 33; s/d incl breakfast €50/70; ) This grandiose and very central waterfront hotel attracts a slick Greek crowd and some foreigners, drawn by its two pools, Jacuzzi, taverna and bar. Rooms are ample and modern, though with less of a personal touch than at the smaller places in town. Light sleepers should factor in the nocturnal street noise from the cafe strip below.
Ino Village Hotel ( 22730 23241; www.inovillage.gr; Kalami; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €65/80/100; ) With its courtyard pool flanked by ivy-clad, balconied white buildings, Ino Village is a citadel of subdued elegance high above Vathy. While this miniresort is sometimes booked by tour groups, it never endangers the stylish quietude of the hotel, which also boasts a fine restaurant.
Eating
Sto Psito ( 22730 80800; Plateia Pythagorou; souvlaki €3) Hearty portions of souvlaki and other light grills are served at this very popular place sprawling across the square.
Kotopoula ( 22730 28415; Vlamaris; mains €6-8) This local favourite known for its spit-roasted chicken is 800m inland along Ioannou Lekati, in the shade of a plane tree.
Garden ( 22730 24033; Manolis Kalomiris; mains €6-9) Greek specialities stand out at this soothing spot off Lykourgou Logotheti, on a tree-filled outdoor terrace within a garden.
Solo Pasta ( 22730 23699; Kefalopoulou 13; mains €7-12) With a spic-and-span interior and brisk service, this Italian joint opposite the hillside bars does inventive salads, good bruschettas and various fancy pasta dishes.
Elea Restaurant ( 22730 23241; Kalami; mains €8-12) Ino Village Hotel’s patio restaurant has contemplative views over Vathy and its harbour below, and serves invigorated Greek cuisine and international dishes, while doing fine renditions of classics like swordfish souvlaki (cubes of meat on skewers). Samian wines are well represented. Beware charismatic barman Dimitrios when he tries to whip you up one of his patented shots of tequila with lemon and ground coffee.
Drinking
Vathy’s nightlife is more Hellenic than in Pythagorio’s blonder, Northern European–frequented bars. While most cafes and bars cling to the waterfront, the coolest ones overlook the water along Kefalopoulou. They include Escape Music Bar, Ble, and Selini. All play modern Greek and Western pop, plus more ambient music matching their outside lighting, which shines on the gently rippling water below to dazzling, hypnotic effect.
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AROUND VATHY (SAMOS)
For something different, head 4km northeast to Arkoudolakas and the Panouris Ranch ( 6942704950; www.samostour.dk; Arkoudolakas village; 9am-noon & 6-9pm) for horse-riding expeditions in nearby forests (€10 per hour). Since the horses are