Greece - Korina Miller [488]
Beaches
The beaches east of Vathy are some of Samos’ best and least crowded. Follow the north-coast road out of town for 10km and look for a signposted dirt road left leading to Livadaki Beach. Here, tropical azure waters lap against soft sand in a long sheltered cove with facing islets. Only Greeks in the know come to Livadaki, which has a beach bar with colourful and comfy soft chairs, and music day and night. The water is warm and very shallow for a long way out, and Livadaki’s hedonistic yet mellow summer beach parties easily spill into it. Free kayaking and palm-frond umbrellas are available.
Back at the turn-off for Livadaki Beach, continue east 5km to the fishing hamlet of Agia Paraskevi, which has a shady pebble beach and multicoloured boats moored offshore. This beach, popular with Greek families, has a meat-and-seafood taverna, Restaurant Aquarius ( 22730 28282; Agia Paraskevi; mains €5-8).
Several other small beaches line the coast road south; for these a 4WD is advisable.
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PYTHAGORIO ΠΥΘΑΓΟΡΕΙΟ
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Down on the southeastern coast opposite Turkey, pretty Pythagorio has a yacht-lined harbour, and Samos’ main archaeological sites. The waterfront is lined with touristy restaurants and, when crowded with Scandinavian package tourists, does give one the feeling of a Viking invasion. Since it’s not far from Vathy (Samos), you can day-trip it from there for the fine nearby beaches and archaeological sites, though there’s accommodation should you prefer to stay.
All boats travelling south of Samos dock at Pythagorio, from where day trips also depart to Samiopoula islet.
Orientation
From the ferry quay, turn right and follow the waterfront to the main street, Lykourgou Logotheti, a turn-off to the left. Most services are here. The central square (Plateia Irinis) is further along the waterfront. The bus stop is on Lykourgou Logotheti’s south side.
Information
Commercial Bank (Lykourgou Logotheti) Has ATM.
Digital World ( 22730 62722; Pythagora; internet per hr €4; 11am-10.30pm) Has internet access.
National Bank of Greece (Lykourgou Logotheti)
Port police ( 22730 61225)
Post office (Lykourgou Logotheti)
Tourist office ( 22730 61389; deap5@otenet.gr; Lykourgou Logotheti; 8am-9.30pm) The friendly and informative staff advise about historical sites and sleeping options, provide maps, bus timetables and ferry info, and also exchange currency.
Tourist police ( 22730 61100; Lykourgou Logotheti) Left of the tourist office.
Sights & Activities
Samians took the lead locally in the 1821 War of Independence; the major relic of that turbulent time is the Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis ( 9am-7pm Tue-Sun), built in 1824 by resistance leader Logothetis on a hill at the southern end of Metamorfosis Sotiros, near the car park. The city walls extend from here to the Evpalinos Tunnel, a 25-minute walk along this path.
The Pythagorio Museum ( 22730 61400; Town Hall, Plateia Irinis; admission free; 8.45am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) contains finds from the Ireon, though the best are in the Vathy (Samos) museum.
Exiting Pythagorio northeast, traces of an ancient theatre appear on a path to the left. The right fork past the theatre reaches a cave monastery, Moni Panagias Spilianis (Monastery of the Virgin of the Grotto; 22730 61361; 9am-8pm) – a welcome respite from summer heat.
EVPALINOS TUNNEL ΕΥΠΑΛΙΝΕΟ ΟΡΥΓΜΑ
Back in 524 BC, when Pythagorio (then called Samos) was the island’s capital and a bustling metropolis of 80,000, securing sources of drinking water became crucial. To solve the problem, ruler Polycrates put his dictatorial whims to good use, ordering labourers to dig into a mountainside according to the exacting plan of his ingenious engineer, Evpalinos; many workers died during this dangerous dig. The result was the 1034m-long Evpalinos Tunnel ( 22730 61400; adult/student €4/2; 8.45am-2.45pm Tue-Sun), which can be partially explored today. In mediaeval times locals used