Greece - Korina Miller [490]
Beaches
Glykoriza Beach, near Pythagorio, is a clean, pebble-and-sand beach with some hotels. However, sandy Psili Ammos Beach, 11km east, is much better. This lovely cove facing Turkey is bordered by shady trees and has shallow waters good for kids. There are tavernas and rooms, the best being Psili Ammos Apartments ( 22730 80481; s/d €38/65), above the beach’s western edge. These family-friendly self-catering apartments with balconies overlooking the sea come with baby cribs and separate kids’ rooms.
Buses go from Vathy (Samos) to Psili Ammos, as do excursion boats (€15) from Pythagorio. If driving, take the Pythagorio–Vathy road north and turn east where Psili Ammos is signposted. A unique pond on the left, 1km before it, is animated in spring by cheery pink flamingos.
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SOUTHWESTERN SAMOS
Pythagorio to Drakei Πυθαγóριο προς Δρακαους
The drive west from Pythagorio traverses spectacular mountain scenery with stunning views of the south coast. This route also features many little signposted huts, where beekeepers sell the superlative but inexpensive Samian honey – stop in for a free sample and you’ll walk away with a jar.
Samos’ southwest coast is less touristed than the north, though the best beaches are starting to attract the inevitable resorts; however, tourism is still low-key, and secluded wild spots remain.
The drive from Pythagorio to the pebble beach at Ormos Marathokampou crosses mountains and the unvisited villages of Koumaradei and Pyrgos. From the beach, it’s a 6km drive inland to Marathokampos, which has panoramic views of the immense Ormos Marathokampou (Bay of Marathokampos). Some 4km west of Ormos Marathokampou is Votsalakia (often called Kambos), with its long, sandy beach. There’s an even nicer one 2km further at (the other) Psili Ammos Beach. Domatia are available, while beach tavernas prepare fresh fish.
Past Psili Ammos, the rugged western route skirts Mt Kerkis. From here until the villages of Kallithea and Drakei, where the road abruptly terminates, the coast is undeveloped and tranquil.
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NORTHERN SAMOS
Vathy to Karlovasi Βαθ προς Καρλóβασι
From Vathy (Samos), the coast road west passes many beaches and resorts. The first, Kokkari (10km), was once a fishing village, but has become a resort. Windsurfing from its long pebble beach is good when the wind’s up in summer. Rooms and tavernas are available. The popular nearby beaches of Avlakia, Lemonaki and Tsamadou are the most accessible for Kokkari-based walkers. The latter two are clothing-optional.
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A MATTER OF MEASUREMENTS
While the obsession with getting the ‘proper pint’ may seem modern, the ancient Greeks too were fixated on measuring their alcohol. Pythagoras, that great Samian mathematician (and, presumably, drinker) created an ingenious invention that ensured party hosts and publicans could not be deceived by guests aspiring to inebriation. His creation was dubbed the dikiakoupa tou Pythagora (Just Cup of Pythagoras). This mysterious, multiholed drinking vessel holds its contents perfectly well, unless one fills it past the engraved line – at which point the glass drains completely from the bottom, punishing the naughty drinker for gluttony.
Today faithful reproductions of the dikiakoupa tou Pythagora, made of colourful, glazed ceramic, are sold in Samos gift shops, tangible reminders of the Apollan Mean (the ancient Greek maxim of Apollo): ‘Everything in moderation.’
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Continuing west, the landscape becomes more forested and mountainous. Take the left-hand turn-off after 5km to reach the lovely mountain village of Vourliotes. From here it’s a 3km hike to Moni Panagias Vrondianis, Samos’ oldest surviving monastery, built in the 1550s. Vourliotes’ multicoloured, shuttered