Greece - Korina Miller [491]
Back on the coast road, continue west until the signposted left-hand turn-off for another enchanting village, fragrant Manolates, located 5km further up the lower slopes of Mt Ampelos (1140m; known as the ‘Balcony of Samos’). Set amidst thick pine and deciduous forests, and boasting truly gorgeous traditional houses, Manolates is nearly encircled by mountains and offers a cool alternative to the sweltering coast. The village’s upper part offers impressive views.
The mostly elderly residents of Vourliotes and Manolates are keenly aware of the tourist euro, and shops selling handmade ceramic art, icons and natural products are many. In fairness, you can find good stuff, including the Just Cup of Pythagoras (boxed text), and the taverna fare is fresh and well prepared. Despite these villages’ visible popularity with tourists, they’re still worth visiting for a taste of old Samos.
Back on the coast heading west, the road continues through Agios Konstantinos, a pretty, flower-filled village before Karlovasi, Samos’ third port. This workaday place is useful only for ferry connections. However, just 2km beyond it lies the sand-and-pebble Potami Beach, blessed with good swimming and a vaguely Rastafarian beach bar. It’s complemented by nearby forest waterfalls; head west 50m from the beach and they’re signposted on the left. Entering, you’ll first encounter a small, centuries-old chapel, where pious Greeks light candles. Continuing through the wooded trail along the river brings you, after 10 or 15 minutes, to a deep river channel where you must wade or swim, height depending, through a forested canyon – along with the local eels – before enjoying a splash under the 2m-high waterfalls.
Sleeping
In Kokkari, EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; 22730 92217) finds accommodation. It’s about 100m after the large church by the bus stop, beside the OTE (national telecom company) building.
Studio Angela ( 22730 94478, 21050 59708; Manolates; d €25; ) These five studios in Manolates, built into a hillside overlooking the sea, have modern rooms and kitchenettes.
Traditional Greek House ( 22730 94331; Manolates; studio €35; ) Phone ahead as there’s only one studio available in this large old Manolates house behind the Despina Taverna. The room is quiet, romantic and tastefully furnished.
Kokkari Beach Hotel ( 22730 92238; Kokkari; d incl breakfast €75; ) This classy establishment 1km west of the bus stop, set back from the road in a pretty yellow building, has modern and comfortably furnished rooms. There’s a cafe opposite.
Eating & Drinking
VOURLIOTES
Galazio Pigadi ( 22730 93480; Vourliotes; mains €5-7; 9am-11pm) Right after Vourliotes’ plateia, this atmospheric place has a variety of traditional Greek mezedhes including revythokeftedhes (chickpea rissoles) and bourekakia (crunchy filo pastries filled with cheese). Try the house speciality, kokkoras krasatos (rooster in wine).
Pera Vrisi ( 22730 24181; Vourliotes; mains €5-8; 10am-12am) This old-style Samian taverna by the spring at Vourliotes’ entrance offers exceptional village cuisine and homemade barrel wine.
MANOLATES
Pigi ( 6974984364; Manolates; mains €4-7) Opposite the parking, this outdoor place has great sea views and authentic decor; try the pitakia (crunchy pies with cheese and pumpkin). All the food is homemade, with ingredients from the owner’s own vegetable patch.
Loukas Taverna ( 22730 94541; Manolates; mains €4-8) This well-signposted taverna atop Manolates offers magnificent views of mountains and sea from the outdoor balcony; the offerings, ranging from fried zucchini flowers and hearty meat portions to local muscat wine and homemade cakes, make the walk worthwhile.
Kallisti Taverna ( 22730 94661; Manolates; mains €5-7) This intriguing taverna on the square has numerous excellent dishes including kleftiko (lamb with vegetables), and desserts, like the tasty orange pie.
Despina Taverna ( 22730 94043; Manolates; mains €5-9) This little taverna, halfway up