Greece - Korina Miller [496]
After Nagos, the coast road heads northwest and upwards into remote terrain, skirting craggy Mt Pelineo (1297m). Amades and Viki are two tiny villages before Kambia, high up on a ridge overlooking bare hillsides and the sea. Here choose between turning south on the central road through the mountains, or continuing along the coast.
The latter option passes through wild, empty hills on a jagged road, reaching the pebbly Agia Markella Beach and monastery above it, also named after Agia Markella, the island’s patron saint. Some 3km southeast is Volissos, Homer’s legendary birthplace, with its impressive Genoese fort. Volissos’ port, Limnia, isn’t striking but has a taverna. From Volissos the coastal road continues south until Elinda, then returns eastwards to Chios Town.
Sleeping
Hotel Kardamyla ( 22720 23353; kyma@chi.forthnet.gr; Marmaro; s/d/tr €91/114/140; ) Although the 1970s architecture is somewhat dated, the simple rooms are clean and well maintained at this quiet beachfront hotel in Marmaro. Repeat visitors come for the warm hospitality of the joint Greek-Turkish Spordilis family, who invite guests for a patio lunch. This is the sister hotel of Chios Town’s Hotel Kyma, and stays can be arranged from there.
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SOUTHERN CHIOS
Unique southern Chios is arguably the island’s best destination. Here and nowhere else grows the gum-producing mastic tree, throughout a fertile, reddish territory known as the Mastihohoria (Mastic villages). This region of rolling hills, criss-crossed with elaborate stone walls running throughout olive and mastic groves, is highly atmospheric.
Ottoman rulers’ penchant for mastic made the Mastihohoria wealthy for centuries. Some architectural wonders remain in the villages of Pyrgi and Mesta. The former features houses decorated in unusual colourful patterns, while the latter is a car-free, walled fortress settlement built by the Genoese in the 14th century.
Other unique southern Chios attractions include Byzantine churches, the striking Cave of Sykia with its stalactites and stalagmites, and beaches. The port of Limenas Mesta, which offers seafood tavernas, is also a convenient jumping-off point for ferries to Psara (for ferry information, Click here).
Pyrgi Πυργ
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Located 24km southwest of Chios Town, Pyrgi (peer-ghi), the Mastihohoria’s largest village, juxtaposes traditional and modern architecture. Its vaulted, narrow streets pass buildings with facades decorated in intricate grey and white patterns, some geometric and others based on flowers, leaves and animals. The technique used, called xysta, requires coating walls with a mixture of cement and black volcanic sand, painting over it with white lime and then scraping off parts of the lime with the bent prong of a fork to reveal the matt grey beneath.
Pyrgi’s central square is flanked by tavernas, shops and the little 12th-century Church of Agios Apostolos ( 10am-1pm Tue-Thu & Sat). The church’s 17th-century frescoes are well preserved. On the square’s opposite side, the larger church’s facade has Pyrgi’s most impressive xysta designs.
On the main road, east of the square, note the house with a plaque attesting to its former occupant – one Christopher Columbus.
Although definitely worth seeing, Pyrgi is better as a drive-by than a sleepover destination. However, there are signposted domatia, and Giannaki Rooms ( 22710 25888, 6945959889; d/q €40/70; ) offers regular rooms plus a house for up to eight people (€100).
Emboreios Εμπορειóς
Six kilometres southeast of Pyrgi, Emboreios was the Mastihohoria’s port back when the mastic producers were real high-rollers. Today it’s much quieter, though it does boast Mavra Volia Beach, named for its black volcanic pebbles. There are domatia and, for food, the shady, atmospheric Porto Emborios ( 22710 70025; mains €5-9), decorated with fishing nets, hung chillies and garlic.
Mesta Μεστ
Mesta (mest-aah) is a truly memorable village, and one of Greece’s most unusual. Here, appealing stone alleyways,