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By Root 1658 0

intertwined with flowers and intricate balconies, are completely enclosed by thick defensive walls – the work of Chios’ former Genoese rulers, who built this fortress town in the 14th century to keep pirates and would-be invaders out. Mesta is an ingenious example of mediaeval defensive architecture, featuring a double set of walls, four gates and a pentagonal structure. Since the rooftops are interconnected, with the right guide you can actually walk across the entire town. Dastardly locals have been known to settle scores by dumping water on an adversary’s head from above.

In mediaeval times, mastic was a hot commodity, prized for its medicinal powers, meaning Mesta had to be especially well fortified. As a car-free village, it’s a relaxing, romantic place where children can run around safely. Mesta also makes a good base for hill walking, exploring hidden southern beaches and caves, and participating in cultural and eco activities.

Village life converges on the central square, near the enormous church of the Taxiarhon, with small cafes and restaurants; on the tranquil, secluded laneways, rooms for rent are indistinguishably attached to the residences of bemused elders, who sit outside while the occasional cat darts past and the laughter of running children fills the air.

ORIENTATION

Buses stop outside of the village walls, on the main road; the plateia here is known locally as Gyros. Facing the town from the bus shelter, turn right and then immediately left; a sign points to Mesta centre. Head down to the central square (Plateia Taxiarhon) for tourist information, rooms and eating options.

SIGHTS

There are two churches of the Taxiarhon (Archangels). The older and smaller one dates from Byzantine times and features a magnificent 17th-century iconostasis. The larger, 19th-century church, on the square, was built entirely from the townspeople’s donations and labour. It has an ornate outer patio, huge, glittering chandeliers and very fine frescoes.

ACTIVITIES

To participate in traditional Chian farming, cooking and cultural activities, plus various outdoor activities, find Vassilis and Roula at Masticulture Ecotourism Activities ( 22710 76084, 6976113007; www.masticulture.com; Plateia Taxiarhon) by the restaurant on the square. This very kind and helpful couple provide unique ecotourism opportunities that introduce visitors to the local community, its history and culture. Some activities include mastic cultivation tours (€18), grape stomping with local winemakers (€25), cooking classes and pottery classes (€20).

Masticulture sells boat tickets, finds accommodation in Mesta, Limenas Mesta, Olympi and elsewhere, and provides general information. It’s the official port agent for Limenas Mesta, and can arrange boat tickets and advance accommodation for those visiting Psara.

SLEEPING & EATING

Masticulture Ecotourism Activities can arrange rooms, or else ask in the adjacent Mesaonas restaurant for the proprietors listed below.

Anna Floradis Rooms ( /fax 22710 76455; floradis@internet.gr; s/d €40/50; ) The friendly Anna Floradis, who speaks French and some English, has rooms, studios and self-catering suites throughout Mesta, all with TV and air-con.

Dhimitris Pipidhis Rooms ( 22710 76029; house €60; ) The friendly, English-speaking Dhimitris and Koula Pipidhis rent two traditional houses in Mesta. Each has two bedrooms, a pounti (the traditional small Mesta house atrium), kitchen and washing machine. Book ahead in summer.

Mesta Medieval Castle Suites ( 22710 76345; www.medievalcastlesuites.com; d/tr incl breakfast €94/117; ) These luxury suites for the discerning, spread throughout Mesta, seem to blend in seamlessly with the neighbouring houses. Open the door, however, and you have ultrachic rooms with all modern amenities, including flat-screen TVs and laptops; the only thing lacking, perhaps, is a bathtub. Decor is minimalist and obeys the contours of the space. The helpful staff can retrieve guests from the ferry or airport.

Mesaonas ( 22710 76050; Plateia Taxiarhon; mains €5-10) With tables spread across Plateia