Greece - Korina Miller [504]
Although most of the action is centred on the waterfront, like other Greek ports, Mytilini offers much more than the average Greek island capital. Although tourism is significant to the local economy, it doesn’t make or break things, and the locals tend to be friendly and down-to-earth. Handmade ceramics, jewellery and traditional products are sold on and around the main shopping street, Ermou, and there are many fine ouzeries and student-fuelled bars to enjoy. Plus, the arrival of atmospheric budget accommodation has helped make Mytilini an even more attractive base for island adventures.
Orientation
Ferries dock at the northern end of Mytilini’s long and curving waterfront thoroughfare, Pavlou Kountourioti. Further along it is Plateia Sapphou (where a statue of Sappho stands), with nearby restaurants, cafes and hotels. The shopping street, Ermou, links this southern harbour with the disused, ancient northern port. East of the harbours, a large mediaeval fortress stands surrounded by pines.
The long-distance bus station is beside Agias Irinis Park and the local bus station is on Pavlou Kountourioti, near Plateia Sapphou. The airport is 8km south on the coast road.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Sfetoudi Bookshop ( 22510 22287; Ermou 51) Sells good maps from Greece’s leading Road Editions series and books on Lesvos.
EMERGENCY
Port police ( 22510 28827)
Tourist police ( 22510 22776) On the quay.
INTERNET ACCESS
InSpot ( 22510 45760; Hristougennon 1944 12; per hr €2.40)
Sponda Internet Café ( 22510 41007; 29-33 Komninaki; 10am-1am) Near Iren Rooms.
INTERNET RESOURCES
www.lesvos.com Online information on Lesvos.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Bostaneio General Hospital ( 22510 57700; E Vostani 48)
MONEY
Numerous banks equipped with ATMs line Pavlou Kountourioti.
POST
Post office (Vournasson)
TOURIST INFORMATION
EOT ( 22510 42512; Aristarhou 6; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri)
Port authority ( 22510 40827)
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Olive Groove Travel ( 22510 37533; www.olive-groove.gr; 11 Pavlou Kountourioti; 7.30am-10pm) Friendly, all-purpose travel agency on the central waterfront; sells tickets for ferries and boat trips to Turkey.
Zoumboulis Tours ( 22510 37755; Pavlou Kountourioti 69) Sells ferry and plane tickets, runs boat trips to Turkey and rents rooms.
Sights & Activities
Mytilini’s imposing early Byzantine fortress (adult/student €2/1; 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) was renovated in the 14th century by Genoese overlord Francisco Gatelouzo. The Turks enlarged it again. It’s popular for a stroll and is flanked by pine forests.
The archaeological museum ( 22510 28032; adult/child €3/2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), one block north of the quay, has impressive finds from Neolithic to Roman times, including ceramic somersaulting female figurines and gold jewellery. The ticket grants entry to the new archaeological museum (8 Noemvriou; 8am-7.30pm), 400m away, which portrays island life from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD, including spectacular floor mosaics under glass.
The bulbous dome of the Church of Agios Therapon crowns Mytilini’s skyline. The church’s ornate interior boasts a huge chandelier, an intricately carved iconostasis, a priest’s throne and a frescoed dome. The Byzantine Museum ( 22510 28916; admission €2; 9am-1pm Mon-Sat) in its courtyard boasts valuable icons.
TERIADE & THEOPHILOS MUSEUMS
From Pavlou Kountourioti’s northernmost section, take a local bus 4km south to Varia, unlikely host of the Teriade Museum ( 22510 23372; adult/student €2/1; 8.30am-2pm, 5pm-8pm Tue-Sun), with its astonishing collection of paintings by world-renowned artists like Picasso, Chagall, Miro, Le Corbusier and Matisse.
The museum honours the Lesvos-born artist and critic Stratis Eleftheriadis, who Gallicised his name to Teriade in Paris. Significantly, Teriade brought the work of primitive painter and fellow Lesvos native Theophilos to international attention.
The Theophilos Museum ( 22510 41644; admission €2; 9am-1pm & 4.30-8pm), located next door,