Greece - Korina Miller [505]
Sleeping
BUDGET
Alkaios Rooms ( 22510 47737, 6945507089; www.alkaiosrooms.gr; Alkaiou 16 & 30; s/d/tr €30/40/50; ) This collection of 30 clean, well-kept rooms nestled discreetly in several renovated traditional buildings is Mytilini’s most attractive budget option. It’s a two-minute walk up from Paradosiaka Bougatsa Mytilinis (below) on the waterfront.
Iren Rooms ( 22510 22787; cnr Komninaki & Imvrou; s/d/tr €40/50/60; ) Friendly Iren has reasonably priced rooms of a good standard, though most don’t have the ambience of sister establishment Alkaios Rooms. However, it’s a closer walk if coming from the ferry dock, and next to an internet cafe.
New Life Rooms ( 22510 23400, 6947365944; Ermou 68; s/d/tr €35/50/70) New Life has bright and well-furnished rooms, a new outdoor bar and a quiet setting on a central side street. There’s not always someone there, so call ahead.
MIDRANGE
Hotel Sappho ( 22510 22888; sappho@microchip.gr; Pavlou Kountourioti 31; s/d/tr €45/60/70; ) This perfunctory place on the central waterfront frequently fills up because of its position. Despite being dated, it has the necessary amenities and, fortunately for late-night ferry arrivals, 24-hour reception.
Porto Lesvos Hotel ( 22510 41771; www.portolesvos.gr; Komninaki 21; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/60/70; ) and Porto Lesvos Hotel 2 ( 22510 21217; www.portlesvos.gr; Alkaiou 15; s/d/tr €50/60/70; ) are central sister hotels, which aspire to a slightly higher standard (as witnessed by the complimentary toiletries, bathrobe and slippers). The hotels have all mod cons, though rooms are a tad snug for the price.
Eating
Paradosiaka Bougatsa Mytilinis (22510 26918; Kountouriotou 19; bougatsa €2; Mon-Sat) Whether you’re stumbling off an early-morning ferry or out for a breakfast stroll, this busy waterfront place has Mytilini’s very best sweet bougatsa, plus various coffees.
O Diavlos ( 22510 22020; Ladadika 30; mezedhes €3-6) This central ouzerie has excellent ambience, set inside a lofty, wood-beamed building, with (purchasable) artwork lining the walls. Laid-back owner Panayiotis Molyviatis serves up unique and tasty mezedhes, like giouslemes (a crunchy cheese pie) and sfongatoa (a sort of oven-baked cake made of zucchini, egg, onion and cheese). Also try the Turkish-flavoured beef kebabs on pitta bread with onions and yiaourtlou kebab (Greek yoghurt). Music ranges from relaxed to rembetika (Greek blues).
Ouranos ( 22510 47844; Navmahias Ellis; mezedhes €3-6) A popular ouzerie that looks across at Turkey from a breezy patio on the ancient northern port. Tempting mezedhes include kolokythoanthi (fried pumpkin flowers stuffed with rice), ladotyri mytilinis (the oil-drenched local cheese) and hefty servings of kalamari.
Stou Mihali ( 22510 43311; Ikarias 7, Plateia Sapphou; mains €3.50-5; 9am-9pm) If you’re after good mayirefta at a good price, this is the place. Unlike many other such eateries, here you can combine half-portions and thus enjoy more variety. Try the soutzoukakia (tomato-soaked beef rissoles), imam baïldi (roast eggplant with herbs) and Greek salad.
Palia Agora ( 22510 91118; cnr Agion Theodoron & Ermou; mains €4-6; 8am-1am) This appealing place, usually playing old rembetika music, is a good and inexpensive choice for fish dishes and mezedhes. The decor is authentic, the service friendly.
O Ermis ( 22510 26232; cnr Kornarou & Ermou; mezedhes €5-8) This friendly, family-run restaurant with outdoor seating serves very tasty salads and mezedhes in portions that seem small at first, but are in the end just right. It began life in 1800 as a Turkish cafe, and the intriguing traditional decor within reveals bits and pieces of its long history since. Good Macedonian and Limnos wines are offered, and the brown bread is warm and fresh.