Greece - Korina Miller [507]
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NORTHERN LESVOS
With rolling hills garbed in pine and olive trees, peaceful beaches and the aesthetically harmonious town of Mithymna (usually called by its old name, Molyvos), northern Lesvos offers both spots for solitude and some low-key resort action. Seaside hot springs, unvisited traditional villages and intriguing Byzantine monasteries round out the region’s offerings.
Moni Taxiarhon Μο Ταξιρχο
Some 36km north of Mytilini Town, near Mantamados village, stands one of Lesvos’ most important pilgrimage sites: Moni Taxiarhon (Monastery of Taxiarhon; Mantamados village; admission free; 8am-8pm). An axis of Orthodoxy, myth and militarism, this grand 17th-century monastery dedicated to the Archangels is pretty full-on: note the fighter plane parked out front. It all begins to make sense when you recall that the Archangel Michael is the patron saint of the Hellenic Air Force. Indeed, you may meet the odd pious soul here who firmly attests that, even though those mischievous Turks may harass Greek airspace in their F16s on a daily basis, the saint’s invisible presence prevents them from flying over the monastery itself.
While numerous reported miracles draw the faithful from around Greece, you don’t have to be a believer to marvel at the monastery’s magnificent architecture. Mentioned first in 1661 as a working monastery, the current church was built in 1879 as a three-aisled basilica. It’s surrounded by leafy grounds (where a snack shop and toilets are conveniently located).
The voluminous interior is marked by grand columns and decorated by icons, the most venerated being an earth-toned depiction of the Archangel. Legend attests that it was created in the 10th century, after a Saracen pirate raid decimated the monastery. While the pirates were massacring the monks, the last survivor climbed to the rooftop; there the Archangel miraculously appeared, sword drawn, driving the Saracens off. To show his gratitude, the monk painted the icon, supposedly, by mixing mud with the blood of his dead comrades. In 1766, the icon was placed in a special case and the shiny faux silver markers you will see dangling before it symbolise worshippers’ prayers that have been answered. There are also ornamental shoes left as sacred offerings (the alleged imprint of the Archangel’s foot is in the floor near the iconostasis).
While at the monastery, visit the shop of the Agricultural Co-op of Mandamados ( 22530 61096; asmadama@otenet.gr), which sells numerous natural products from local farmers, like the unique hard cheese, ladotyri, made from sheep’s milk.
Mithymna (Molyvos) Μθυμα (Μóλυβος)
pop 1500
Mithymna, more commonly called Molyvos, is a well-preserved Ottoman-era town of narrow cobbled lanes and stone houses with jutting wooden balconies, complemented by a clean pebble beach below. Drawing a mix of independent travellers and package tourists to its waterfront hotels, Molyvos is a curious place. Yet, factoring in the intimate upper town, crowned by a grand 14th-century Byzantine castle, and good nearby beaches, Molyvos becomes a nice enough spot to spend some time while exploring northern Lesvos.
ORIENTATION
The bus stops on the main north–south road bisecting the town. Below this road is the waterfront, with a beach, several hotels and restaurants, and cafes on the northern end. Above the central road begins the upper town, consisting of narrow, winding streets, where the more atmospheric accommodation and restaurants are located. The so-called agora (market), clustered with tourist shops, is further up. Above this is the castle.
INFORMATION
ATM-equipped banks are centrally located.
Central Internet Café (per hr €4) On the port road.
Medical Centre ( 22530 71702)
Municipal tourist office (